That's the theory I'm going with. I don't plan on going to the track more then once a year or so. But I can be a demanding driver haha. I was think of going with a billet intermediate drum but I heard u have to machine the input shaft for clearance and some bushing to. I'm asking around about the hardened drum.
Consider a 4L80E, about 25 pounds heavier than a th400 but nice and strong and overdrive as well as a lockup converter... A nice option if you want to beat on the car and not worry about it...
I've considered it but I do not want electronics on my car. And shifting a manual valve body can get old but I'm still kicking around the idea. But I already got a nice 200-4R I just need to beef it a bit.
I used Vince Janis also to get my 200 done. I have worked with him for over 30 years and you cannot go wrong with him. He is a Buick guy and runs a Grand National. I run mine (full wt Skylark) with a 125 shot of nitrous and he did not put in the billet drum. He did say that is the part that will break. With the nitrous I had 460 tq and 425 hp on a Mustang rw dyno. I use a 3000 stall Pro Torque convertor. I am probably at the edge but he did say it should be ok.
On that forward drum, sometimes you get lucky. The one I pulled out we are saving. My builder called it a "known good part."
I am using a $300 kit to use push buttons to shift the trans manually but electronically... Nothing wrong with a well done 200 trans though.
Well I emailed patc about the difference between the billet and the hardened drums since they sell both. One way or another I will replace my stock drum. I have an stag manual as well a DVD for the 200-4r.
