The snow tires are just on it for rolling it around. The plan is for all four doggies with 10" rim for the 275's in the rear and 7" rims for the 245's up front. ---------- Post added at 06:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 AM ---------- My motivation is just not to have to work on it anymore. I can't wait to be done and on the road with it. With the exception of removing / installing the hood I have done all the work by myself. When I decided to sell my vert I planned and looked forward to not be a gear head anymore and waste money and time on cars. But I am a BUICK guy and don't see myself without a big steel chrome bumpered Big Block Stick car in the garage. I recall many days after I found it in my garage being so dissappointed and pissed at myself for even getting the car that I was ready to scrap it. I had a very simple plan to slap a 455 and th400 and minimal work and sell it. That plan kept eroding as everything I looked at or looked for was either manhandled or missing as previous owners and subsequent custodians of the car were not kind to it at all. That's another story for another time but fast forward to today and just like that, blown cash and time. But it's all about the love of the game, right? Anyone can go buy it all done...
I made a bit more progress over the weekend. The radiator insulators, fan shroud and hose hook installed now buttons up the heating & cooling system. I turned my attention to the inside of the trunk. It is pretty solid but did have surface rust and bubbles under whatever coating the prior owner applied. Must be a marine grade epoxy as it I stubborn but appeared to preserve the trunk. It had had a couple pin holes here and there. After a good wire wheeling and application of phosphoric acid to neutralize the surface rust I repaired the holes with Liquid Steel putty. Great product when welding is not justified. I also used it to eliminate a small hole in the rear window channel. The trunk then received a good coat of Rustolem Satin black paint and when that was dry finished with Aqua trunk splatter. The rear bumper was next for some attention. Although it had been re-chromed 03-04-91 according to the engraving on the back, the back side was rust scaly so I wire wheeled all the loose scale off and applied a coating of phosphoric acid to neutralize it. It is now clean and the nickel is showing through were the chrome was scaled away. A good rub with .0000 steel wool on the outside and it looks very nice. The bumper brackets were wire wheeled , treated with phosphoric acid and finished with Rustoleum. I stripped the paint off the rear bumper script moulding as it had same crap that was in the trunk so it needed chemical stripper. I opted to refinish in black even though it should be Argent Silver for base model 70 Skylark. After painting, I used Q-tips and laquer thinner to reveal the BUICK lettering. I took apart to clean the rear tail light housings. After a good cleaning, I sprayed the inside with chrome paint and they look very good. The lenses are gorgeous and new gaskets finish them off nicely. The rear harness had been worked on by a past owner with a couple replacement sockets but I had a very nice donor from a 70 GS car so I cleaned that one up and only had to replace one sockets that was too rusty beyond repair. New bulbs installed with dielectric grease, tested and finished the job. The rear glass was installed. I applied a Genuine BUICK Parts sticker to the inside drivers side. The last of all weather stripping has been removed and now ready to install the Metro kit.
Looking good Mark! Soooo, when can I drop my 68 and all it's parts off for you to assemble? Should only take you a weekend or two....... Haha
Thanks Tim, drag it over and bring a bunch of cash and depending on what's needed, allow another weekend or two as I would hate to rush anything.
Not much doin this weekend and pics are not too exciting; so here it is. Not pictured yet is I scored a clean very nice pair of 15x7 factory steel wheels that will be dropped off for blasting and powder coating for future use for the front wheels as those on it now are 14" just for rolling it around. Rear wheels are in the works but I am using what I have. I am fabricating clips to hold the doggies onto the rear Aluminum 15"x10" Cragars which I plan to "black out" paint to disguise them for the street sleeper look. The Doggies fit exactly and hide the holes in the rims just right. This allows use of the 275/50/15 Drag Force tires. No pics until I am done :Brow: I installed the gently used Autometer Super Comp Oil Pressure and Water Temperature gauges and the Monster Tach that I scored off Fee Bay for $150. I doubt that tach will stay but until I splurge for a factory repop it will do. It has the shift light option, currently notinstalled as it looks way out of place. What I did was run the wiring for the shift light into the rear defogger fan switch area and plan to install a small Hi-Visibility indicator light into the face plate. I installed the rear defogger which was of the Holiday Coup's only factory option the car came with. I dismantled and thoroughly cleaned the fan and ducting so it blows freely and the fan and duct are dust free. I installed all new clips for back glass and windshield stainless and rubbed to a shine all pieces with the .0000 steel wool. I sealed the back glass with Urethane and installed the trim. The new glove box liner and tire pressure sticker finish the dash off nicely. I'll recap the other odds and ends that go into bringing a car left for dead back to life with the next update. Cheers! I installed the METRO 2d Coupe Weather-strip kit that I previously prepared the body & seal channels for. I am pleased with the fit and finish and having used METRO on the vert not surprised with the fit and finish. Great Product.
Mark, liquid steel used on pin holes. Is this item sold in parts stores? I have a use for this product . Thanks. Paul
nothing new, trying to get some exhaust within my budget from a member to try and have it fired up before new year...hopefully it works out.
2.25" - 2.5" with X or H style crossover pipe, though new 20" Dynomax mufflers running stock configuration out the back is the plan.
Last update for 2013- Long over due, and not too exciting. More nick-nack detail work has kept the project inching closer to road worthiness. In no particular order, here is what's gone on the since last update: I installed a NOS horn contact kit, the passenger side front bumper filler, the factory fuel tank vent set up thanks Bruno D for sending these goodies to me. I produced a perfect pair of quarter extension seals and installed those. The new gas tank cap buttons up fuel system work and put in 10 gallons of fuel for break in. The Mr Gasket Wire loom and valve cover studs clean up the engine bay nicely I installed the kick panels which were cleaned, refinished, and the vent cables were cleaned, lubricated and new knobs which finishes these pieces off nicely. After installing the kick panels, the refinished e-brake assembly was installed. The e brake cables and connectors were wire wheeled, installed and adjusted which buttons up the e brake system. I purchased and installed a new Napa Premium 8474 battery to handle the electrical needs. The rear-end has been filled with new gear oil and is ready to go. I am buying a set of no hop bars from a board member and once those show up I will install to assure wheel hop doesnt tear **** apart and knock teeth out of me and the rear end. I then moved to bleeding the brakes. The rears did fine; the fronts produced nothing at the bleeders. I replaced the wheel cylinders and rubber hoses and bled them off- all ready to stop now! I filled the block with coolant and the radiator is topped off- cooling system- check- ready to go. I installed the rear seat belts & shoulder belts that I had previously cleaned. I cleaned the interior that came with the car until later when funds allow for some needed new pieces. I installed the rear panels, bench seat, door jamb lace, front door panels and all window lace trim so it is at least complete inside now. The ringinal headliner is in very nice shape. That two tone blue interior is a kick ass color combo! I went to install the A pillar metal trim covers that I restored only to discover they must be off a 4 door or wagon as they are a bit too long and dont fit! Damn, I am looking for a set of those now to do over. I ordered new dark blue carpet kit, package tray and bench seat back rest nuts. The carpet & package tray are due next week some time. I cleaned and lubricated the decent '69 black split back bench seat mechanism and temp installed it to have a chair until the carpet kit comes. Once I install the carpet and remaining seat belts and package tray, that will be the final interior work until new upholstery finds budget. I added oil and break in additive to engine and added the trans gear oil to the Rock Crusher. All systems GO. I have acquired a rally gauge and dash tach. I refurbished the rally gauge and will test the tach then tear the dash back apart to install these and ditch the monster tach. Next weekend I plan to rub the paint and polish it up. I think it will turn out pretty decent and look forward to seeing it shine up a bit. I will then install t rocker moldings to finish the exterior for the time being. I now have all 4 - 15x7 steelies that I will clean and powder coat for new rubber soon and the doggies will be right at home. I adjusted the hood and the hood locks so the fit is very nice and the hood locks work effortlessly. The remaining parts list is short but is hefty budget: 1) Exhaust 2) Drive line 3) Tires 4) Front & Rear Bench seat covers, front door panels and arm rest pads Boring Pics:
I have been very busy with work but making a lot of progress on the Street Sleeper since the last update.... I will try to provide a complete detailed progress update and photos Sunday night. Meanwhile, she's sleeping soundly and raring for tear arsing the street and strip! Cheers!
Great Job ! Very inspriartional for the rest of us. Love the faded blue ! I may have missed something in the thread. Are you keeping that look ? What color is it ? My son has a 72 Skylark in Cascade Blue but I like the looks of yours JB
[/COLOR] Update time: As stated, progress has been good but not steady as time has not allowed but i make the most of what I can. I am in the process of buying out the exhaust system which is the only piece needed before I can fire this thing off and break in the cam. I am getting anxious for the day I can drive this car for the first time. I don't want to black out the rear wheels for the dog dish so I am looking for some 15"x 8" steelies then I will refinish the 15x7's with the 15"x8's to match body color, get a pair of 245/60/15 for the front and transfer the 275 BFG Drag Force tires for the rear and sell those nice aluminum wheels to help offset the funding. The Coupe came from the factory with the spear style Rocker trim which was missing of coarse when I got the car. I located driver quality wide style and converted it using the hardware kit from Mike G for the lower rockers and the factory hardware that the quarter moldings were sent with. The factory 1970 in dash tachometer and rally gauge have been installed. I need to get a photo for the thread. I installed a pair of high end 10 full range speakers for future stereo system use before installing the jute padding and the new rear package tray leaving new seat covers and addressing the bottoms of the door panels to complete the interior renovation scope at some point in time. I installed 32lb jute felt over the entire floor to provide additional insulation and sound deadening before the new carpet is installed. The back portion is fit and the front is now ready. It is noted that the manual transmission pre-molded kit does not fit / work for the Skylark so I went with the Automatic Trans style and it fits and looks great. The carpet job will be finished off with a pair of brand new Jamb Trim. This weekend I installed the NS Nitrous kit that I acquired from a board member. I must say it has to be about as clean of an installation possible. The goal is to conceal it form view as much as possible. I bent new steel fuel lines from the mechanical pump up to the carb to incorporate the additional nitrous components including fuel pressure switch, tap for fuel pressure gauge and the fuel line to the injector solenoid. I am using an under hood fuel pressure gauge for engine break in purposes but have a new Autometer in car gague set up that matches the oil pressure and water temp mounted under the dash that will utilize the port on the tee the little temporary guage is in. I drilled and tapped the Quadrajet for the injectors and plumbed the system as tight as possible to conceal it when the air cleaner is on. Hard to see is the wide open throttle switch mounted to the throttle cable bracket. The photo shows the black wire loom that conceals the wiring to and from the switch & relay. With the exception of any necessary wiring needed under the hood (which is also very cleverly concealed) all the other wiring and the fuel pump, bottle heater and nitrous system relays are installed inside the car. I utilized the handy access behind the steering wheel lower dash removable cover plate and installed the relays. I had M&H wiring make me a correct factory accessory pigtail with provides three 12V constant power at the fuse panel. I modified the factory accessory dash plate that has the rear defogger switch in it to place the nitrous arming toggle and a small blue indicator light that illuminated anytime the system is injecting juice into the engine. I added an electric fuel pump to supplement the stage 1 mechanical fuel pump. The in line fuel pump is located on the frame rail where the factory utilizes a short piece of rubber to join the front and rear steel fuel lines. The nitrous line and power for the fuel pump and bottle heater also follow the factory fuel lines and are concealed in black wire loom and zip tied. A inline fuel filter also is installed in line with the factory rubber line that connects the tank to the steel rear fuel line. All in, less than 12 of rubber fuel line exists on the car. Into the trunk I drilled an 1-1/8 hole and fit a rubber grommet to pass the nitrous line and bottle heater power wire. The bottle is mounted to the floor and will have a duffle bag that the bottom is cut out of to place over the bottle to conceal it when the trunk is open. I installed the No Hop bars and the driveline which will have one of Steve Corrussos clean safety loops when it arrives. One give away on a car is the battery disconnect switch usually located under the passenger side rear bumper or somewhere else in plain sight. Since my intention is to be compliant to NHRA track rules and tech the car yet keep the street sleeper intact, I installed the switch behind the license plate door which can be propped open when at the track to comply with the rules. The battery is still located in the factory location. All wiring for the switch will be concealed in black wire loom on the passenger side frame rail. ---------- Post added at 08:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 AM ---------- Thanks, I am not touching the exterior other than buff out and polish it. Factory color was GM #25 - Gulfstream Blue. Car was repainted once long ago to a close color....
Thanks it is fun and rewarding to see the project come together. One thing does need attention next time I am at it as I ran out of time but plan to correct the length of the braided fuel line that is currently too long...
