1970 GS 455 Chassis Details

Discussion in 'Chassis restoration' started by waltonj, Jan 8, 2012.

  1. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Wow looks real good. Not sure if it is true on every car but this original GSX I took pictures of has all the S clips forward of the yellow clips. I had to change a couple of mine when I saw them. Maybe it was just which guy put them on. Check out picture.
     

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  2. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    tough to see in the first picture but it is there.

    ---------- Post added at 02:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 AM ----------

    You can buy that GAS GAS hose from Ames. It looks good on the fuel pump.
     
  3. waltonj

    waltonj Well-Known Member

    Dave, thanks. what is the brake line going through the frame on that car? Am I just seeing things?
     
  4. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Justen, I think you are seeing the E brake cable with the horse shoe clip holding it where the cable goes through the frame.
     
  5. waltonj

    waltonj Well-Known Member

    Another question from a young Buick owner: How are the repro master cylinders and power boosters? At some point mine was swapped to a master cylinder and booster out of a drum car. I see Original Parts Group sells an "authentic reproduction" assembly, but is it correct? Do they have the part number in the casting? I guess you can get it with the Delco Moraine stamped on the booster, but what about the date codes?

    Thoughts?

    FYI- the car probably won't make Bowling Green- 25% chance
     
  6. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    I cannot comment on the masters but the boosters are junk> The triangles are cut deeper and the Delco Moraine stamping looks like crap. originals were stamped either outside right side up or inside upside down. Check out this website. www.brakeboosters.com His name is Steve. Nice guy to deal with. He compares orignals with the repros. He will sell you a nice rebuilt/plated unit. It will cost more but it is way worth it in my opinion. If you want to wait longer he can find you a correct date coded unit. The date code is very small on the top tab so it is probably not even worth the worry. Put an add for a master here then have it sleeved by White Post and the cap plated by Steve.
     
  7. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

  8. waltonj

    waltonj Well-Known Member

    great info. I had a feeling there would be some differences. Thanks!
     
  9. dl7265

    dl7265 No car then Mopar

    Depend if you have disc or drum ? drum m/c is not repo so you will want whitepost Or Apple hydraulics to rebuild it.
    date code booster with no trade in is $455.00 with Steve. I do my own plating since he's in it for profit.


    DL
     
  10. waltonj

    waltonj Well-Known Member

    We didnt put much time into the restoration over the last year, but we did make a little progress. Feel free to voice your opinion on what does not look right on the photos i've attaced.

    A few questions i have are:
    1. Who is a good supplier for correct belts? hoses? vacuum lines?
    2. Vendor for correct oil pressure sending unit?
    3. My assembly manual shows lines coming straight down out of the fuel pump. Mine come out at 90 degrees?

    Thanks for vewing,

    Justen
     

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  11. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    I looked at pics fast, Got to run to an appt.,it looks good! Wiring harness shield or guide on Rt valve cover should be red. Where your finger is should be a fuel line clip. Don't know why PCV is in the valve cover? No Lt ex shield or pre-heater stove. You need an engine aseembly brkt near the ac brkt on the intake to be exact. I think earlier pumps came straight down and later pumps out at 90 degrees. Nobody makes the correct sender, but replacements are available. Same with belts, you just look for the right size non-cogged belts. The make doesn't really matter, you take the lettering off, if they aren't GM A few of the vac lines (like under the air cleaner) are white striped which you can get. Close htr hoses are out there, rad hoses are out there and can be re-stamped. I'll look again later.....
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2015
  12. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    you need the steel line that attaches to the brake vacuum fitting on the back of the intake. Looks like you have a rubber hose on there now. That is from a big car. The fitting should have female threads on it.
     
  13. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Also I cannot tell if you have the big AC compressor pulley on there? You need compressor decal as well. There are many different ones.
     
  14. waltonj

    waltonj Well-Known Member

    There are a few things i need to rob off my '70 electra including the wire harness shield that goes next to the passenger side valve cover, pre-heater "stove",
    and hopefully the oil pressure sending unit (can't remember if that car has the gauges). I also plan to rob whatever hardware i need to make mine correct of that car.

    I have the mojority of the missing items coming from a couple vendors and i'm hoping for the best. I feel like i keep OPGI, RockAuto, and Ebay in business...

    Thanks to both of you for the feedback.

    Justen
     
  15. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    I assumed you were talking about the sender for gauges. The one for a light you could probably find NOS. Doubtful your Electra has gauges. The good news is, to my knowledge, the old style, non-existent sender is going to be reproduced shortly. That stove...it's actually 2 parts over there. The large Y-shaped cover, I was changing mine on the car today, and it's difficult to do in the car. You will have to take the manifold off to get it on, or lift that side of the engine. Now is a good time to get that done while the intermediate steering shaft is out. It is like the motor mount heat shield, the battery cable guide, the solenoid shield, etc. 5 mins if the engine is out to do these things, but very hard to do them when the engine is in, and the fenders on.
     
  16. dl7265

    dl7265 No car then Mopar

    Who's making a 1970 only 80lb unit ?

    DL
     
  17. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    I'm not sure what part #'s or PSI old style senders will be made, or are being made. I know Ames is working on it. They will be the shape and style of the original senders. I've had a lot of GTO's in the past, but I forget the PSI's and the NPT size (s). Like Buick they varied. I think there's a good chance they will work, but if they are 1/8" NPT then we may have to use a 1/4" adapter (it would not be visible).
     
  18. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    I found out the hard way that the Pontiac is a different thread size. I paid top dollar for one at Carlisle for a used one and found out it did not fit. It did fit friends Olds. Maybe it would fit with the proper elbow but the part number was wrong. The next year at Carlisle I found an NOS 60 Pound flat top unit with the Buick part number. I believe they changed to a 60 pound unit in late 1970. The unit I found was gold. No idea what the rhyme or reason is from black to gold.
     
  19. waltonj

    waltonj Well-Known Member

    Is there a good source for a modulator line?

    Justen
     
  20. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    All the big companies like Inline and classic tube sell them but the ends are not exact to original. The do not have the elaborate opening but they still work.
     

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