1967 Buick Special - Modification videos/VLOG

man i would figure the EfI would help .....

 

I believe they are stock but I'm not 100% sure. They look stock. but probably not original. Again I really don't know to be honest. They aren't tubular.

The EFI helps with just about everything! I'm going to do another video on how the car starts and runs - cold, warm, hot, after sitting for different amounts of times....so on. I have a new set of plugs in it and I'm going to see how they do. I ordered a new manifold as well. TA Performance.

 

Looking good. I see the painted top on yours...my Skylark also came with a black painted top from the factory. It's all one color now...

 

Congrats! It looks great. I wish I would have gone with that system. Looks like it was a pretty simple bolt in kit.

 

Yeah for the most part it was pretty straight forward. I did spend 4 hours on the driver side upper control arm due to the fact that I had to drop the header out and remove some of the steering components. Another 6 hours was spent on the passenger side lower control arm. Again header removal and my mounting tabs were bent all to hell. I had to rig up all sorts of crazy devices to get them straight.

 

This car is a hobby to me so please don't hate at this next post. Here we go. I wanted to change up the look and feel of the engine compartment so I purchased a so called "cold air intake" from Spectre. "Added horsepower from taking in cooler air". Scientifically that is perfectly accurate. But in reality is it going to help anything at all! I will say this, it looks cool and it solves all my hood clearance issues which is enough for me....







It's a nice kit, very easy to install. I just feel like this won't make a bit of difference because the intake is still pretty close to the engine. So tomorrow, I'm taking the Buick out on the streets and it will be "Classic air cleaner vs cold air intake". Video should be up pretty soon. (This setup also shows off the very cool Holley EFI, totally worth it LOL!!!)

 

Here...watch this.

I'm afraid you're just sucking in hot air where it's currently located. You would be better suited with a longer pipe that can reach the cooler air.

 

Looks like you can pick this kit up for $165 off of jegs...

 

I am a bit jealous of your engine bay. Do you know what wire looms those are? They almost look like these...https://www.spectreperformance.com/search/product.aspx?prod=18483 I need to pick some up for my new wires.

 

I honestly don't know. The wire looms came with the car. I tried searching online and couldn't find them either. TA Performance has "Billet Plug Wire Looms" with no picture of course.

http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1819B

 

I emailed them a couple of weeks ago asking for a picture and they sent me some lame picture. I didn't purchase them. I just bought those spectre looms...hopefully they'll look as good as yours.

 

Same size Foose rims in chrome. I know a lot of people hate it when us youngsters put rims like this on our Classic's, but that is what we like to do! LOL! The cold air intake dropped my fresh air temps 15 degrees while driving 35-45 MPH, a bit more at 65 MPH. No real difference while sitting at a red light. I'm heading to the speed shop tomorrow to swap the current setup for one that is a bit more aggressive. I'll post up the results.

 

I read through the entire thread, cool car. I have a soft spot for the 65-67 cars and regret selling my 67 special. keep up the good work.

 

My Buick won "Best Of Show" tonight here in Akron. Big deal for me. I have 1000's of hours into my Special and it finally paid off. The guys I hang out are the best guys you could ever meet. We have a solid crew of 6 guys and 5 of the 6 won awards. Just look at the pictures. Left to right, Chris - Hottest GM Pontiac Le-mans, James - Hottest classic truck, Jimmy - Best of Show, Brian - Best Low Rider, - J-Bird - Best of Ford Classic Cars.

 

Well, the cold air intake upgrade did work somewhat. Temps are down 10-15 degrees,,,but not quite what I was hoping for. I am currently drawing up a better solution. However, this car has been treating me quite well. I've got about 2000 miles on her this year. What should I upgrade guys and gals? I need motivation here. Should I go for aluminum heads? I don't really like the pulley's on the engine...I would prefer billet aluminum but I honestly don't even know if that type of thing is available for a car like this, other than custom made? what do you all think???

 

That's a tough call on what to do next, you've got a great setup there.
Maybe time for a proper photo shoot.

 

I actually just got done working on the rear end a few hours ago. So, I have been chasing a problem with my rear end all summer. I've had it apart probably 4-5 times since I rebuilt it the first time. It is now fixed and I want to share this with all of you watching this thread. I bought a Eaton Detroit TruTrac posi for my GM 12 bolt. Every time I would shift the trans from reverse to drive and vise versa, there would be a very loud "CLUNK" noise. On deceleration when the load shifted, "CLUNK". Loud enough to where people would look at me funny. Very embarrassing. So, today I found the cause and it was not my fault (that made me feel a lot better LOL). It was inside of the TruTrac posi. Not backlash, bad u-joints or drive shaft or trans...nothing like that. The clunk was coming from inside the Eaton TruTrac gearing system. I was fortunate enough to be able to exchange the TruTrac for a regular limited slip diff (with clutch packs and springs, so on) and the problem is solved. I called Eaton and discussed the issue with the TruTrac. Eaton basically said, "Yeah, by design, they make a bunch of noise". Unbelievable. So, if you want a diff that requires little to no maintenance but makes a ton clunking noises, buy a TruTrac. If you want a diff that may require some work after thousands of miles, but doesn't make clunking noises, buy a limited slip. Spread the word...

 

I did drive the car for about 45 minutes since I wrapped my headers (then broke down while getting gas - turned out to be a bad starter motor). There is a noticeable and significant difference in under-hood temperatures. For $90, can't beat it. Engine runs cooler by about 5-10 degrees F which blew my mind. Mass air flow temperature sensor shows 10-15 degrees cooler. Again, very impressive in my opinion. The air temp sensor usually reads about 120-130 on an 80 degree day. I'm now down to 105-110 on the same 80 degree day. I'll continue to monitor it and let you know if anything changes.