1966 GS Spring replacement

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by Skezix, May 19, 2018.

  1. Skezix

    Skezix Well-Known Member

    Big Abody fan here.. Couple of larks and a couple chevelles...

    In my past restorations I have done some modifications so I was able to go with custom springs UMI, BMR etc..

    This time... Found a 1966 GS 4speed 401... She needs help, all there and all original so no modifications will be taking place, except 2... One will be a going to go with a power brake booster , and I will be pulling the 14" rallys and running the later 15'..

    Long winded here.. Building parts list and its long.... I need springs and would like to maintain what would look to be factory ride height. Lists for days on what springs for different A bodies based on so many variables...

    Any 66 GS pro's chime in with recommendations.. Moog lists so many different springs I do not want to play that game if I can avoid it.

    Thanks in advance.

    Skez
     

    Attached Files:

  2. 36racin

    36racin Platinum Level Contributor

    I'm sure Walt will chime in soon. He's a pro with wheels and suspension on the 66's
     
  3. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Cool find! It's surprising these cars are still popping up. It must have been stored away for decades.

    For the front, Moog #6033 is a match for the original.
    Moog #6197 is a close match for the rear.
    I run 15's and 60 series tires on my cars too.
     
  4. Skezix

    Skezix Well-Known Member

    Yes, from what I am told it was a one family car 2 owners. It was a CA car, I received the orig black plates from when it was sold new. They are pretty rough but they need to be restored also. Thanks so much for the spring info, even with the window channel rust issues and the no haggle price tag I just could not walk away. May I ask what size 60 series you fit under there comfortably? Also... would it be considered blasphemy to mess with the ball joint height in the lower front? I do my best to correct geometry on my Chevelles, I want to keep this one orig as possible so no tubular corrections up front, but a bit taller lower ball joint can do wonders in my experience.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2018
  5. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    255/60-15 in the rear can be snug. Sometimes the rear axle isn't perfectly centered in the body and one side has less clearance and may rub at times. 235/60-15 for the front.

    My silver 4 speed car came from Calif too. Needed front and rear w/s channels replaced. If you need one, get the repo rear deck filler panel for B-O-P, not Chevelle. Chevelles are a few inches shorter in the back of the car. Front w/s channels are all the same.
     
  6. Skezix

    Skezix Well-Known Member

    Wow, can get a lot of rubber under there for a stock height, the front yes it will have to be totally replaced, possibly a bit of fab on the dash itself. The rear so far cross my fingers looks like I maybe able to fab in a small section but that might change as I dig in further. Thank you for the tip on the rear.
     
  7. 36racin

    36racin Platinum Level Contributor

    They are all rotten around the window channels. A simple drain line on each side would have settled that GM problem.
     

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