1964 Buick Special - NO Spark at the Coil - Please help!!!

No spark from coil!!!

Having trouble with obtaining spark at the coil.

Background
1964 Buick Special Convertible. V8 340 cid 2 bbl. cast iron block with Aluminum heads. Power-glide 2 speed trans. Car has been sitting for 13 years. When it was last driven it had no problems. Its been garage kept. We are trying to revive it to move it to my home to restore. I have installed a new coil, condenser and points. Still no spark at the coil.

Even though we had power to the coil using the starter circuit (11.7a at the on position and 9.2a during cranking), no spark was present in the coil. So to test we took the wire from the + terminal on the battery to the + on coil to ensure we were receiving correct power (should have probably taken a wire from - term on battery to - term on coil), still no spark.

Second step is to use a probe to determine correct power by clipping probe to neg on battery and with key on, touch the + side of coil - hopefully light will come on (which we already know is true). After we touch the neg side coil while engine cranking and the light should flash.

Also to eliminate ignorance switch issue, we will try a remote start at the coil. Plus we will look at paint wire from dizzy to coil to ensure it is not grounding out on the dizzy body.

Also thoughts on putting in an Electronic distributor? What type to use?

Please advise what other troubleshooting can be done to ensure spark

Thanks

Chris

 

If you disconnect all wires to the coil and connect the leads of an ohmmeter across both the positive and the negative terminals of the coil, there should be a low, but definite resistance across the terminals. From memory, I'd say 3 ohms or less, but not infinite. If the resistance is infinite or zero, the coil is bad - if the resistance is relatively low, bot not zero, the primary winding of the coil is good. Your spark problem is elsewhere. With a breaker point ignition system, if you connect the ohmmeter leads to the distributor negative side of the distributor and a good ground (with all primary wires disconnected), as the engine cranks, the resistance should vary between infinite and zero. If it does not, the issue is in the distributor.

 

John thanks for the information. We will try this weekend and I will report back. Any thoughts on putting in an electronic distributor? I so brand and where should I buy? I have been told this will make my life simpler!!!

Thanks

Chris

 

Larry thanks for the comment. We did not. We were told they were set to factory settings. Guessing we should believe everything we are told!!!. I've been told its a art to set them and we may want to consider getting an electronic distributor. Thoughts on that? What would you suggest and where to buy it from?

Thanks

Chris

 

I like John's idea beacuse it teats the entire point/coil circuit. If you put an ohm meter on the + side of the coil and turn the engine it should read high and low resistance alternately (if the points are indeed opening and closing).

So you are checking the continuity of:
1) the primary of the coil
2) the wire going from the negitive side of the coil to the points (that flexes with the vacuum advance and can break)
3) the points
4) the ground wire that supplies the ground to the point mounting plate (that also flexes and can break)

If it reads open (high resistance) all the time you can step through the curcuit to see where the open is. If it reads low resistance all the time the points aren't opening.

Most points I've installed are fairly close, usually within 5 degrees of dwell, right out of the box. The "big A" points I was using back in the late 60s only needed adjustment half the time, they were usually within 2 degrees.

Your engine is probably a 300. Aluminum heads will bolt onto a 340 but the manifold ports wont line up very well. If the intake manifold is also aluminum it is definitely a 300, I am not aware of any aluminum manifolds for a 340.

You are about to figure out why they parked it 13 years ago.

 

Re: electronic ignition
Don't start changing parts , until you know what the problem is.
Let's get it running before you start taking things off and putting something else in its place.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Everyone,

I really appreciate all the responses and information. Any recommendations on a water pump? What kind to get. Its original and has a leak. Were going to pull the radiator and get it tested and cleaned so decided we might as well replace it. Anything else you all can think of let me know.

This is my first time working on rebuilding a car. I have a buddy doing most of the work while I sit on the sidelines learning. Turning the key for him!!!!! He has six Alpha's. Were planning on working on it Sunday so I will report back.

Phil I do know its a 340 with Aluminum Heads. Its my father-in-laws car. He is the second owner of it and bought it in the early 70's and has done some modifications to it over the years. He worked in the car industry designing exhaust systems. It was my wife's and her sisters first car. Only reason it got parked is he started putting his motorcycle stuff in it and it became a pain to get it all out to drive it. Eventually he just lost interest in it and its sat every since in there garage. I have a 16 year old and a 11 year old that really want to drive it!!!!!!!!

Again everyone thanks for all the information.

Chris

 

Hi,

Not sure if has been mentioned, but check the wire that goes between the coil and the points, as they will break internally and is a pain to figure out, had a 65 v6 do that to me took a month to finally figure it out.

Regards ,

 

Just saw this... not mine, but may help ID the OP's engine. ws

https://greenbay.craigslist.org/pts/5994598912.html

 

Larry after much discussion with my father in law you are right its a 300!!!!!!! Went through the books and confirmed. He couldn't believe he was wrong. Thanks again and will report back after this weekend.

Thanks

Chris

 

Well wanted to give you all a update and see if someone can answer some more questions.

The story!!!!

Had the car flat bedded up to a friends shop. He got it running, but it wasn't plated so he really could do anything but drive it in his parking lot. Took it home and right off the bat wouldn't drive over 40 mph and overheated on me. First item of business replacing the thermostat. Well learned the hard way by going to fast and not using some degreaser, snapped the head off the bolt. After many hours of trying to get the bolt out snapped an easy out off in it. Intake manifold screwed. Time for upgrade. Located a original four barrel intake manifold. Bought it and a new Edelbrock four barrel carb. Installed both car started up!!!! Unfortunalty still wouldn't drive of 40mph, no power off the start, and overheating. Had the top radiator hose blow up on me and the new intake manifold sprung a leak on me. Sounded like a shot gun went off and got radiator fluid everywhere. Replaced hose and had intake manifold fixed. Long and short of it after many discussions realized had the wrong springs in the electronic distributor and changed them out from 5,000 rpm springs to 2,5oo rpm springs. Had the timing reset and carb adjusted and now the car is running great and not overheating. SUCCESS!!!!!!!!! For not knowing anything about cars I got it back on the road.

Now a couple of new questions.

1. Going to put new wheels and tires on it. Thinking 15" Craigar SS with a 225/60 Radial TA's on it. Thoughts? Currently has 14" original wheels on it. Want something more aggressive looking and better handling.
2. Any recommendations on how to hook back up the Dash Pot and Idle Stator Switch? New Carb will not allow right swing/length of travel. I don't have the AC in the car so I believe its not even needed. Thoughts?????
3. Any recommendations on how to hook back up the Transmission Control Detent Switch?? What does this even do? New Carb will not allow right swing/length of travel car is shifting without it. I believe it just helps in high performance situations. Is that correct?

Upgrades to the car so far below.

1. New electronic distributor with 2,500 rpm springs in it.
2. Removed old two barrel intake manifold and replaced with a four barrel.
3. New Edelbrock four barrel carb. Model 1403
4. New fuel pump
5. New water pump
6. New radiator
7. New gas tank

IMG_3755 3 by Chris Mulloy posted Jun 20, 2017 at 11:07 AM

IMG_3754 3 by Chris Mulloy posted Jun 20, 2017 at 11:07 AM

IMG_3753 3 by Chris Mulloy posted Jun 20, 2017 at 11:07 AM

IMG_3752 2 by Chris Mulloy posted Jun 20, 2017 at 11:07 AM

 

Nice looking car! Bet that's fun!
Take some pics of the issue you are having with the "detent" switch. My first thought is that
you have the st300 switch pitch transmission (two speed with a high and low stall torque
converter) It is crucial for performance! Then fill us all in on the distributor you put in
and how that went. I think we are following with the springs rpm being lighter
or stronger?

 

Chris,
Looks like a fun car and in really great condition! Those are 66 hubcaps on it. If you decide you want a set of 64 spinner hubcaps, send me a PM. I have a really nice set hanging on the wall in the garage I will sell.

 

Always room for another 64 Special on the road!! Good luck with it.

 

Chris, I have an MSD in my Buchev. This was installed only because when I purchased the engine, the stock distributor was junk. If it had been good, I probably would have kept it.

 

Brett here are a few Pictures of the original set up and the new set up. I have also included pictures from a manual on the car. Any thoughts on how to get the Transmission Detent switch hooked back up?

As far as the electronic distributer goes the 5,000 rpm springs the it came with were much stiffer not allowing the timing to advance. The 2,500 rpm springs are looser.

Also any thoughts on the wheels? Thanks for your help!!!!

Original Set up by Chris Mulloy posted Jun 21, 2017 at 9:06 AM

Original Install 1 by Chris Mulloy posted Jun 21, 2017 at 9:06 AM

64 Buick 2 by Chris Mulloy posted Jun 21, 2017 at 8:36 AM

64 Buick by Chris Mulloy posted Jun 21, 2017 at 8:36 AM

New Set up by Chris Mulloy posted Jun 21, 2017 at 9:07 AM

IMG_3207 by Chris Mulloy posted Jun 21, 2017 at 9:07 AM