The main problems with "marine" engines: 1. If they're lakewater cooled, the engine blocks and heads can have substantial corrosion. If the cylinder walls are corroded enough, they can pinhole and leak coolant into the cylinder, or leak cylinder pressure into the cooling system. This is soon followed by Sudden Terminal Disassembly. STDs are never fun. 2. Marine engines tend to be run HARD, and "put away wet". They live a tough life even when the hourmeter might say otherwise. Often, the block temperature is low enough to cause cylinder-bore wear and oil contamination. A real-live reverse-rotation engine will have a crankshaft that may have different machining at the rear main seal. It's a sure leaker unless the machining is changed, and a neoprene seal used instead of the Hateful Rope. The seal surface on the crank can have a series of indents intended to pull oil out of the seal. Looks like "/////////////" embossed into the seal surface of the crank. The reverse-rotation cranks have these marks the opposite direction, so that if an incorrect "direction" crank is used, it pushes oil under the rope seal. The marks need to be polished down. I suppose the same thing could happen at the rope seal on the damper. CHECK THE PARTS to see how they're machined.
thank for your input on the engines. I was going to use them but changed my mind. I posted them so if someone would want them. I bought these engines to save them . thanks again schurkey I did not pull the cranks out of them but my engine builder said the same thing. as far as them being dirty they are not.
Hi I live in Argentina My name is Jorge I have a engine Buick nailhead 401 marine This engine turn to left the engine casting number is B1364705 I think is 1966 Anybody have information for convert this marine engine to car engine? Thanks Jorge
From the flywheel end, or the damper end? And I'd be happier with "clockwise" or "counter-clockwise".
