1960 Electra 225 Convertible R&R

Discussion in 'Projects' started by Smartin, Aug 27, 2005.

  1. STAGE III

    STAGE III Lost Experimental 455-4 Bolt Main Block.

    Lies like a rug

    Not sure if they are or not to tell the truth.

    Just looked like your interior (lemme know if you ever see some black and gray 60 interior items) anyhow looked like yours so thought I'd let ya know.

    I was looking at those claybars I was so impressed with how this one turned out then I remembered mine finally got painted! :Dou: :TU:

    Yahooooooooooooo for new paint!


    Fritzenswartzenaeger :3gears:
     
  2. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    The claybars are amazing! ....particularly for paint jobs that have been in some weather.
     
  3. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Welp, the 60 is gone. I do have to replace the custom power steering hose with one from CARS, which I'm not too happy about, but that's a 15 minute job.

    And a new project comes in! This one is easy, though. Regular maintenance items like fluids and such, and all the rubber on the car is getting replaced. It has a nice new white top though! I will have to adjust the front bumper - every time he drives this car behind me, it crawls under my skin....the driver side is cocked up about an inch.

    No engine work on this car....except the power steering pump is making noise....bearings?

    [​IMG]


    My LeSabre is jealous of all the attention the other cars are getting. You can actually see it pouting.

    [​IMG]


    I got to visit my convertible today...I miss the power!! and the stereo...
     
  4. STAGE III

    STAGE III Lost Experimental 455-4 Bolt Main Block.

    Hey man,

    Found the answer to our question on those mats.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4605097656&sspagename=ADME:B:SS:US:1

    Here is the quote from another more detailed ad:

    "These mats were offered by Buick as a dealer installed accessory in 1964 and 1965. They look like the metal-ribbed inserts that came in the 1961 and later Olds Starfire, but are not the same. They have sharp metal prongs around the perimeter that actually go through the carpeting and then are bent to hold them in place. They have a foam material on the back"

    To late on the others I guess but next time we'll know :Smarty:
     
  5. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    interesting! Thanks for the info, Fritzenswartzenaeger:beer:grin:
     
  6. STAGE III

    STAGE III Lost Experimental 455-4 Bolt Main Block.

    Thats MISTER Fritzenswartzenaeger to you pal! :laugh:

    Although Mister Fritzenswartzenaegerbrewskimiester has a nice ring to it also :Brow:
     
  7. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    Hey Adam, how hard was it to rip out that old heater core? I'm going to have to fairly soon and just want to know what I'm getting myself into. Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2006
  8. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    It was an absolute nightmare. Sicne you have a 62, it may be slightly different. I have a 62 in the garage right now, and I'll go take a look to see if it's close to the same story....
     
  9. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    It looks the same, but you have much more room than I did in the 60 under the dash to get the heater box out. The core is bolted in the heater box, and the box must be removed partially to get the core unbolted.

    I don't think there ever was a car made that had an easy-access heater core.
     
  10. MikeM

    MikeM Mississippi Buicks

    Maybe a Corvair. :)
     
  11. Mister T

    Mister T Just truckin' around

    If you'll call a Ferd a car, :laugh: I can tell you that the 65-66 full size were a snap to R & R. I think 4 small bolts to remove after disconnecting the hoses, yank the puppy out, install new one, bolt it up, connect hoses = done in about 15 minutes. :TU:

    (my first car was a 66 Ferd Galaxie)
     
  12. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    I couldn't agree with you more!

    Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it. When you removed the heater core, do you remember having to remove the heater floor pan ducts and the adapter between them and the heater assembly? My chassis manual says that needs to be done before I can yank the heater out from under the dash. Thanks for the help!
     
  13. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Whatever it takes to get that big metal box out from under there.

    If there is a small piece of plastic duct work that needs to come out, then you gotta remove it. Most of the time, these are the easy steps. It's the issue of physically pulling the heater box studs out of the firewall to bring the box back from under the dash. From the engine compartment, there are speed nuts that hold the outer heater box to the firewall. The studs coming out of the firewall are part of the inner heater box. You will be able to see the heater core in plain sight when you remove this cover. It took me a while to remove the heater core in this car due to the cables not wanting to cooperate and holding the box under the dash. It was also much tighter than the 62's dash.
     
  14. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    Alright, thanks again!

    I've already attempted to get the heater air inlet case that's in the engine bay off and that's been a pain. I don't really know why it's not coming off, all nuts are off, its dissconnected from the blower itself, but it just wont come. One stud in particular is giving my troubles. Oh well, guess I'll just give it another try tomorrow.
     
  15. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    That can be a bear to get loose, because it's basically glued to the firewall with sealer.
     
  16. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    Oh, thanks for the info Adam!
     
  17. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    If you can get all the nuts off, then I would try to pull the heater box out from under the dash without pulling the outer box off. There's no real reason to, unless you plan on painting it like I did.
     
  18. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    Well, I finally got around to ripping out the old heater core two days ago. It didn't take as long as I anticipated but it was certainly a pain in the butt. Overall, I think it took me about 2 - 2 1/2 hours. I probably could have saved a little time if I hadn't taken out the front seat but I figured it would make the job easier.

    After I actually got the core out, I discovered that the padding under front carpet on the passenger side was damp. I figurued that must be from the core leaking. Anybody possibly know where I can get new stuff? Also, where's a good place to go for repro carpet? Thanks :beer !

    Again Adam, thanks for the help :) .
     
  19. buicks4ever

    buicks4ever Member

    Adam, that looks like a beautiful 62 Convertible. My father bought a 62 LeSabre brand new in 62, which I believe was the same color as this one. Do you think the owner would be interested in selling? I'm into the 70's cars as you are, but I'd like to own a car like my dad had. You've got a beautiful Centurion. It's the only year I don't have yet. I've got a 72,73 Centurion Convertible,74 LeSabre Luxus Convertible, and a 73 Electra Limited. One of these days I'll register the Centurions on your website. Nice job on the 60 Buick. Take Care, Mark
     
  20. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    The owner of the car recently passed away, so yes they will probably be for sale sometime in the next year.
     

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