is there any problems upgrading a 70gs to a 140 amp alternator. I did notice the wire at back of original alternator is 10guage Original harness Second guessing myself on this purchase before I finish the install I have the American auto wire adaptor kit to install it.
The kit includes an adaptor harness from 10si to 12si connector and a bypass block to remove voltage regulator.
So have you updated your charging circuit wiring in anyway. After looking at my situation There is no way a 140 amp alternator is going to work thru stock 10 gauges wiring and adaptor harness.
If you are worried about the wire size ypu can always run a larger gauge wire from the alt to the battery. Electric will take the path of least resistance. If the flow backs ups as long as it has a place to go ypu should not have an issue. But it's not like an alt puts out max power all the time. It only makes up to that amp when needed
I understand what you are saying I plan on running a 8g wire directly from alternator to battery It is easily hidden in the car and will be short like 3ft. Was thinking even a 6. I was worried about overheating factory harness. I know the loads in line ex radio lights blower etc will only pull load as needed. Just second guessing and thinking I needed just a 100a unit . What do you put online for a fusible link or breaker?
Electricity is like water .. in this case, think of the 55a stock alt and the 140a replacement as the water supply pipe running from the street to your house. Say, your original supply pipe is 4" and you are replacing it with 10". Say, the rest of your house from the supply is only 1/2" copper throughout .. the faucet at your sink could care less that the supply is now much larger because the 1/2" pipe can only flow so much .. .. to continue the analogy a bit - If you turn on ALL the 1/2" faucets, toilets, showers, garden hoses etc. in your house at once, with the 4" supply line will probably not be able to supply the same pressure and you will notice it drop whereas if you did that with the 10" line you would probably not notice a difference. How this comes into play in our old cars is - the wire running to the fuse block is a certain gauge and can carry a certain amount of current (amperage). If you start adding addition equipment RUN THROUGH THE ORIGINAL FUSE BLOCK AND SUPPLY WIRE like electric fans, Stereo equipment etc. then you can run into issues because the stock wiring to, and through, the fuse block is not rated for it. Easiest solution to this is to run a new second fuse block from the Alt supply and wire your new equipment through it.
That is the plan Power msd thru battery and an electric fuel pump thru a relay off the battery It's how my Chevelle is with a 100 amp alternator.
If you want a safety fuse in your 8ga, you can get the stuff used in car stereos pretty cheap. But if it pops you need an extra fuse on board, the also sell automatically and manually resettable circuit breakers. I use the auto ones on things like fans so if a short ypu have protection but also your not stuck with no fuse to replace it with
https://powerwerx.com/resettable-ci...FdFq2Bb6Gz5rOrkTEKTFd9TL77bLIfce0caAusC8P8HAQ Something like this.....under 30 bucks
https://m.delcity.net/store/Hi!Amp-...jI5EA0yc0pFkcT5_EYNVnpZbJj0p0vVpi8aAhM_8P8HAQ Or like this for the auto resetting
Are you thinking of protecting (fuse, fusible link, circuit breaker) the alternator output wire? If so, that's a bad idea. Protecting individual branches of the power supply--such as to high amperage devices like electric fans, or whatever, is fine.
