10 Bolt rear axle rebuild for my 70 GS455

Discussion in 'Got gears?' started by Torsdalen, Feb 26, 2017.

  1. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    Thanks for all help, i really need it (LOL) I have now set the backlash to 0.012 (i know it is to much). Please see the pictures of gear pattern. I already have extra crush sleeve and oil seal, so i need new inner pionion bearing if i need to shim the pinion again. There is a part shop here in norway that have the bearings in stock if i need new ones. I guess i could buy two new inner bearings and go to a machine shop and hone it the correct way for slip fit. Ordering from USA is about 1 week with air. It would be nice for me to get a "set up bearing" ready to install, but i can se it is expencive and i need to know that it is the same size. Is HM89449 the correct part number i need ? Please tell me what to do. Thanks :)
    IMG_9275.JPG IMG_9276.JPG
  2. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    The pattern really didn't change much at all.Unfortunately,the best thing is to pull the pinion bearing back off. You don't need another pinion seal.You just installed a new one,and you are not doing anything that will compromise it.I like to smear just a little bit of grease on the seal surface of the yoke.This allows it to spin smoother while obtaining your preload.
    Torsdalen likes this.
  3. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    Torsdalen, it looks ti.me bt opening up the the backlash you moved the pattern up from the root towards the top of the tooth tooth, which is exactly what should happen, the issue here is you contact on drive side is towards the heel and high on the tooth, and the cost is tow and high. Which means the pinion needs to move back towards the gear set by adding more shim either under the bearing or race. And the backlash needs to be decreased to move that contains from the high side of the tooth down towards the root.

    By opening or increasing block you will move the pattern up on the tooth,

    By righting or decreasing block you will move the pattern down the tooth towards the root.

    By increasing the shims under the pinion ( on this design ) you will move the pattern on the drive side ( convex ) from the heel ( outside diameter ) towards the toe ( inside diameter ) and also move the cost side ( concave ) from the toe up to the heel. Which is exactly what this needs.

    Also remember that by changing pinion depth it will change backlash too...so from here if you move the pinion back towards the gear by adding shims under the bearing or race you will also decrease the backlash without changing the carrier shim packs.

    But you need to get the main pattern more center on the drive and cost side before worring about the 1 or 2 thou adjustments to bl. Now I'm not saying the block is not import cause changes to it will effect pinion location pattern too....as far as the relation from the heel to toe, but not like pinion depth will.

    If I had no measuring tools and got this pattern I would be adding 8 or 9 thou under the bearing or race. Leave the carrier packs alone and retry. It will decrease you bl setting from 12 down to throw area or 6 or 8 I would assume
    Torsdalen likes this.
  4. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    Thanks. I used a hydraulic press for the pinion bearing install. I remeber that i used a lot of pressure, maybe to much ? Could i have crunch or compress the pinion Shim ? Or maybe the setup bearing failed.
  5. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    If you pressed on the inner race it should of not hurt anything, they take some pressure to get them on, and I normally when I think the bearing is on give it a little more to make sure it's all the wsy down. I don't think it crushed anything, I just think it's actually down and staying down better than with the nade setup bearing. It's another reason I don't like to use them and use the smaller shim under the bearing right away and make the final adjustments under the race. I know the bearing is in place, it's not moving, and I'm not changing bearings hoping thete is no differance between them. Just less variables and I'm keeping the changes into thing I can control. I've never measured and I'm sure someone with knowledge than me can chime in but I could imagine there could be some overall heights differance between bearing even from the same maker. But I would bet the change is in the amount of the good bearing is install being pressed on as compared to just sitting on it
    Torsdalen likes this.
  6. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    STUPID ME ! When final assembly i took of the "setup bearing" and installed/pressed on the other bearing. I know see that one of the shims vere attached to the setup bearing, (should have been on the pinion) so the last setup is wrong. See picture. I am happy that i found the reason for the bad gear pattern. IMG_9278.JPG
  7. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    Happens, that's a problem with several little shims.......how thick is that shim just for sh!+$ and giggles?
    Torsdalen likes this.
  8. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    Geez...Man... Details details....lol. Lets hope that does it for you. Crossing our fingers. Jim

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