10 Bolt rear axle rebuild for my 70 GS455

Discussion in 'Got gears?' started by Torsdalen, Feb 26, 2017.

  1. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    Hi:) I am about to rebuild a 1970 chevrolet 10 bolt 8.2" rear axle, for use in my 70 GS455. It has 3:08 ring gear that suits me fine. I have new parts including eaton posi unit and rebuild kit, and new axles. Please help me with instrutions for installing the large pinion race. I made my self a tool using the old race, please see the picture. When i tried to install the new bearing it came about half way, and it was more in at one side. I punched the race at one side from back, and now the race sits about right half way in. Anyone have a tip how to make a suitable tool for this, or if you can recommend a tool kit to use. Thanks :)


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  2. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    Your fine- you have to grind the od down some so the race can be driven into the hole of the casting. Use oil always in the hole and on the driven race. When you seat the race the kick back will be solid bounce back and sound will also change on the strike of the metal.

    Bearings on the carrier will need to be arbor pressed on...DO NOT HEAT them with a torch! Use a old carrier bearing race... remove the cage and bearings and that is your arbor driving race. Make sure you seat the bearing all the way till the hub comes up through the bearing race.... you must not see any light between the hub land and the race seat.
    Jim
    J D
     
  3. 70skylark350

    70skylark350 Jesus loves you unconditionally

    why cant you heat the bearings Jim? just curious, I heated my new axle bearings and dropped them onto the axle shafts. they are the taper roller style, Timkin SET9 with that spacer ring on top of the bearing. I had to heat that ring in the press to get the old bearing off.

    I by no means turned them blue, just got them hot enough to drop on.
     
  4. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    You can go autozone and rent a bearing race and seal driver set. http://m.autozone.com/test-scan-and...o-super-hub-shark-system/394662_0_0?location=

    Not sure what they cost. I use something similar but better quality in my shop. Just just the cup that best fit the race, that does not actually touch it. Put the handle in and lube the race and hammer home. You will get a good kickback when it sits all the way down. Flip the cups over to install seals.
     
  5. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    No Flames. You can not control the heat evenly and will mess the tempering of the bearings... Why take a chance? You can do what you want I am here to tell you the proper way to go about the rebuild.
    Remember too your heating a bearing to a point that it really should not reach in the housing or it would spin on the hub. So the more times you over heat an item that is one one time than it should be done. Yah think?

    If it works for you - do not let me stop you. Just do not like when people start blaming the manufactures of bearings, races and other parts that fail because we decide cut corners on assembly technique we do not want to pay or go out of the way for the time it takes to go to a shop to press on the parts correctly.

    I am sure the boiling water or oven at 350 etc. works and freezing the other items, dry ice etc.

    Just here to guide you all - it is still your car and parts..............

    There are many ways to get it done. I really push towards NOT flaming the bearings....

    Jim
    J D
     
  6. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    Thanks for answers :) I modifyed the tool a bit, and bought a big "hammer". Now the race are safely installed. The other pinion race, i put in the freezer and installed it easy with my other handmade tool that you can seee in the picture.
    Time to install more parts from jdrace.com :)
     

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  7. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    Hi :) Please help. I need a bolt and strap kit for the yoke (1970 Chevrolet 8.2 10 bolt chevelle rear axle) Anyone knows part number for the kit i need ? From summit or jegs ? nd please tell me: are the bolts unc or unf, i need to use some bolts to hook up my special tool and there are some "paint" in the yoke treads. Will not "force" the wrong type bolts in the yoke. Please see photos. Thanks :) IMG_8956.jpg IMG_8957.jpg IMG_8565.jpg
     
  8. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

  9. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    Please tell me. Do i need to press on the ring gear ? Or can i just thighten the bolts. The ring gear are used, not new, rest of parts new. And what is the part number for combination u-joint. Have 70 GS 455 propeller shaft, and 8.2 rear axle. The u joint from the car have inner lockin clip and the 8.2 axle have tabs. Thanks :)
     

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  10. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    More pictures :)
     

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  11. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    Ring gear - It is easier to start a few bolts and press the ring on keep the ring parallel with the flange it should press on pretty easy and be guided by your ring gear bolts (about 3-4 is all you should need equally spaced.

    U-joint is a 372 Moog... chevy to BOP other joint numbers are - precision 372 / neapco 3-3130 / spicer 5-3022X

    Jim
    J D RAce
     
  12. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    Thanks Jim. I think i will use 0,027" shim for the pinion to start, this is the size shim that where ibstalled in the 3:08 pinion i bought from you, and the same size as the shim at the 2:56 pinion that was in the stock nonposi axle. Is that ok ? I have a "setup bearing" so i can replase the shim easely. Thanks:)
     
  13. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    Yep, Have to start someplace. :) Makes sense to me.

    Just keep the backlash in the .008-.010 range and use the compound and feel of the gear to determine you have it correct.
    Do be sure the carrier is in the case saddles by installing the caps each time...You do not need to torque them but it will make sure they are totally seated so you do not get fooled with a false reading.
    Also the carrier must be snug in the housing. IF you are pulling that carrier in and out with your hand ...yanking it right out...YOU DO NOT HAVE ENOUGH preload. You should have to pry the carrier out of the saddles with a J bar.
    If you are smashing the shims obviously your way too tight - It is another GRAY area of rear end building that takes some common sense.

    We are all here to give opinions.

    Jim
    J D
     
  14. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    I have used a 0.027 shim for the pinion, and the backlash is now 0.011. Please see the photos of gear patteren. Do i need to adjust pinion deepth ? If so, what shim ?
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2017
  15. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    Pictures of gear pattern :) IMG_9096.JPG IMG_9095.JPG IMG_9097.JPG IMG_9098.JPG IMG_9099.JPG IMG_9100.JPG IMG_9101.JPG IMG_9102.JPG IMG_9096.JPG IMG_9095.JPG IMG_9097.JPG IMG_9098.JPG IMG_9099.JPG IMG_9100.JPG IMG_9101.JPG IMG_9102.JPG IMG_9096.JPG IMG_9095.JPG IMG_9097.JPG IMG_9098.JPG IMG_9099.JPG IMG_9100.JPG IMG_9101.JPG IMG_9102.JPG IMG_9096.JPG IMG_9095.JPG IMG_9097.JPG IMG_9098.JPG IMG_9099.JPG IMG_9100.JPG IMG_9101.JPG IMG_9102.JPG
     
  16. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    To me that pattern looks like it needs more shim under the bearing. Problem is your going to distroy the bearing to do that.

    To get around that ratech makes a shim relocation kit where you can put the shim under the large pinion bearing race to do the same thing as under the bearing itself.

    But you will need to remove and reinstall that race. Ratech also makes a tool to measure pinion depth for the 8.2. It's like 30 bucks.

    I would not run it that way,.....but by the pattern you backlash looks almost correct, but the coast side has too much contact on the toe
     
  17. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    Thanks :) I have a "set up" pinion bearing installed, so i can easely add more shim.
     
  18. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    We need to know the shim you have under the pinion bearing and the backlash reading. Drive side is too low in the vally of the tooth convex side... coast side is too far in the root not swiping the gear all the way accross. try less pinion depth shim....005 less usually around .030 -.025 if it is a 8.2 chevy rear.
    also double check to be sure you have the carrier nice and tight in the saddles you should have to pry the carrier out if the housing cavity.... we do not want a sloppy carrier it will mess with the pattern we are trying to find.
     
  19. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    Thanks Jim. Yes it is chevy 8.2. I have 0.027 pinion shim and the backlash is 0.011. What shim shoul i use for the pinion ? The carrier are thight, i use a plastic hammer to get it in and a j bar to get it out. I have used a inch pound dial tool to check the preload for both the carrier and the pinion. CARRIER preload are 30, should be 33 says the book. (After calculating 3:08) Thanks
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2017
  20. Torsdalen

    Torsdalen Well-Known Member

    Hi there :) The pinion shim are now 0.020 (was 0.027) and the backlash is 0.007 (was 0.011) . Please see pictures of gear pattern. What to do next ? Thanks :) IMG_9156.JPG IMG_9157.JPG IMG_9158.JPG IMG_9159.JPG
     

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