Sbb crower level 4 or the like. Duration in the high 220s to late 330s. Why? Because I'm looking researching parts needed and cost of building the sbb to have said compression and cam or just going ls 6.2 cammed and such. Plus either way i need it to be a true mustang, hemi and Chevy killer. Mostly street light to light, but I'll take it to the track just for the time slip.... Anyhoo what's needed? Thanks. Been a while what's up guys?
The question of building an engine around a static compression ratio might bring about misdirected comments. I'm reading, "Dollar for dollar against a cammed up good cylinder head ls engine" and being able to compete power wise with modern headed (?) platforms. You're going to need some seriously worked heads and a much bigger stick than a wiffle bat or some atmospheric assistance. Waiting for the new heads? Better nail down that variable before relevant advice can appear. Any sarcasm aside, I'd love to see more of these out there.
I hate to say it, but if you just wanna go fast, the ls is worth that. If you wanna go fast AND be cool, go Buick. The real hemi killer was the 455. A beefy 350 would surprise most people, but a 455 is the better option of the Buick choices.
Big gears. 4.10s. Get your heads done or plan on the aluminum ones as you need those specs to determine cam. , then , I would look at a Scott Brown custom cam or roller. And a .050 offset crank for 370 cubes will make more power. Although we know a well tuned 11.3 compression engine with a 212 cam and 4.10 gears will break 12s .
^^what he said 4.10's 3000 stall add a 4 speed auto for better highway and add about a 75 shot of nitrous just to make sure. I gave a Mustang with a under hood supercharger fits when I ran a 125 shot of nitrous, which means I got out on him and he could not pass me. The video I have in my signature is with a 75-80 shot of nitrous and it is not much and is worth over 1 sec in the 1/4.
X3, stoplight to stoplight = big gears. My brother's 68 Nova with a DZ 302 and 488's with slicks ran strong. Used to street race motorcycles with it!
If you did want to do the 350, with 10:1 you gonna need a healthy cam to pull that off with 93 more than likely Would you consider e85? If so 12.5 or more to 1 with a 245/265 and over 575 lift would be pretty nasty with a 4200stall and a 410 , good rods and zing the piss out of it, then plumb a plate setup with a 150 hit and see what happens
I can see the above making 700hp 700tq on the squeeze and with a power band of 4k to 7500 it would be a blast, 950hp on a sp3 with 2in spacer and custom headers stepped from 1.75 to 1.875 with a 2.5in 11° cone merge,as you can tell I day dream about a nasty SBB too,..occasionally ha
Don't sell the 350 short just yet. These aluminum heads look pretty promising... Aside from this, gearing and traction.
Your reading correctly. Trying to decide if spending the $,$$$ to build up the small block is worth it. Then there's always going to a BBB AND even then what's the dollar amount v.s.... Been a long wait for those new heads and the kid is now looking at her senior year. She wants to drive the burner as do I. Not in the biggest rush as I like to think things over and get it all down packed before pulling the trigger. Can you tell I've been on the fence about an Ls for some time Lol. Easy power and reliability if it was to be driven daily. The mpg along with 4-500 hp is ridiculous. Gotta love the sound and torque of a Buick engine tho. Still been thinking about those heads. I see some real progress has been made. Things are looking up for the 350 crowd. Guess the real goal is a min off 450hp and about the same on torque. Hey Fox! That engines still kicking it down the track? 4.10s will be in the scope for sure Well I'll have to get this all sorted out and figure the route to choose. Id consider e85. What's required to run it. Second thought let me look up the availability in my area.
E85 needs about 30 percent more fuel to run the same engine as regular fuel. And you will need a fuel system that is compatible with the more corrosive e85 alcohol. But octane can easily be 98-100. But you will need to learn to test it as some gas stations it's not always 85% . And if you do a set of heads with big valves, flowing 250 cfm. On a 370 stroker(.050 offset .100 extra stroke) and a .060 overbore. And a custom cam. Zero deck lightweight Pistons and rods.custom cam. As there is 370 that makes 450ish hp so it can be done.
If corn is available in your area: Carb $550+ Eric at Horsepower Innovations Aeromotive A1000 pump is hard to beat $325 Tank : stock or one that Aeromotive makes that the pump sets in is the ticket IMO Lines: 1/2 stainless lines from Classic Tube or the like, or braided nylon Nice hi flow regulator Aeromotive there as well All told $1500+ or so but bear in mind if the car needs a new tank and a new pump and a new carb etc it's all relative and the extra $ is minimal
There isn't any design or technology advantage with the ls series that can't be applied to the sbb for mileage or power. There is no magic, just good working combinations. Search the board for stroker info.
I'll have to check on the corn availability. Last I remember a Kroger gas station had it, but that was years ago. Is there a way to utilize Fuel injection with e85? As I get older I'm kinda tired of carbed engine issues. Fi maybe Holley?
You can build a sbb 370 to 380 stroker from a sbb 350 short block for around $2K to $3K using nascar take out rods that are sold on eBay for a 90% discount of what they cost new! So around $150 to $400 range for rods that have the 1.976" housing bore for the 1.850" rod journal size. Around $300 for crank work to go from 3.850" stroke to a 3.990" stroke. And $150 to $250+ for balancing depending on your local machine shop pricing and if you want internal balancing and need heavy metal added. AutoTech customizable piston and ring kit $649.(so $500 for forged pistons and $149 for performance rings in one kit) Block machining will vary from shop to shop but you can save some $$ here by planning on using customs or the above mentioned customizable pistons. You may be able to skip having it bored out and only having it honed(I personally would want the most bore it can take it to for the most cubes I can get to compliment the extra stroke though, but would require having the block sonic tested) can save on deck milling because you can buy the compression height you need. If the deck isn't milled you might be able to save on pushrods if you're going to stick with a flat tappet cam? I would personally go with a solid roller, spin to win, it don't pay if you don't play! And you'll need roller rockers with lifts over .500 so those would be a good idea because of the advantages of over lifting beyond max flow to get the extra cylinder fill without all that extra pesky duration @ .050". Extra cubes will help raise low end torque and lower where max HP RPM will end up at with a stroker vs a standard stroke small block engine with the same heads and cam. Not saying you can't make a lot of power with less cubes, take a nascar engine for example, those things make 850 + HP BUT they have to spin 9,000 RPM to make that much power! Which is fine if you're going to change the VERY expensive valve springs after every race or for a street car probably every 2,000 miles so the valves don't start floating. There is an old saying albeit wrong that goes "there is no replacement for displacement", it should say "the only replacement for displacement is RPM!" The smaller the engine is the more RPM it has to spin to make the same HP as an engine with more displacement can make with less RPM. A sbb stroker with a solid roller cam you should be able to make 500 + HP and close to the same torque with a well ported set of factory heads. Swap to a set of the white whale heads depending on how good they are if they ever are available for sale and would possibly be another 50 + HP and even more with porting and a cam swap? Here is a good thread that gives a little insight on how much power potential a sbb stroker can have; http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/the-dyno-numbers-are-in.200499/ Keep in mind the above build's N/A dyno numbers are a bit lower from the link because it was purpose built to run boost, so if one were to purpose build one N/A with more compression to run more RPM the numbers would be up from the very impressive non-boosted numbers in the link. GL
If the idea is to do a cost comparison between 2 different makes, find a reasonable power limit to the weaker one, assume many machining costs are the same, isolate the differences, etc. LS parts aren't that cheap.
Is anyone here running any of the fuel injection setups? Tho i don't mind tinkering with carbs I'd like to spend more time fishing lol.
