1.25" Front Sway Bar Upgrade - Best Bang for the Buick!

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by knucklebusted, Jan 3, 2016.

  1. 72newbiebuick

    72newbiebuick Gold Level Contributor

    Hey everyone,

    I know it has been answered probably in one reply or another but.....

    I have the stock front bar and the 7/8" kit with boxed arms in the back from TPP, and control arm to frame stiffeners in the back as well. Will getting a 1.25" front bar really make that much difference???

    Mark
     
  2. Mr. Sunset

    Mr. Sunset Platinum Level Contributor

    :rolleyes: I won't lose any sleep over a point...or two. but hey, thanks for noticing :TU:
     
  3. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Yes, especially if you use polyurethane end links and bushings for the 1.25" sway bar. I already had the boxed control arms, control arm braces and rear 7/8" sway bar. I'd even done the tubular upper control arms, tall ball joints and lots of positive caster and it still wanted to plow out of corners. Now, with the 1.25" sway bar I'm at the limits of my tires, which need to be upgraded. They are G70-14 radials.
     
  4. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    The one thing I forgot to mention and ask if everyone has this issue: I always have to move the tie rod adjusters so the bolts are on the bottom. If I don't I get an annoying 'tick' when I cut the wheel and the tip of the threads hits the sway bar. If you rotate the adjuster clamps so the bolts are on the bottom, issue resolved.
     
  5. srb

    srb Well-Known Member

    So you mean not like this?

    swaybar2.jpg

    And what size of spacer do I need, at Rockauto I can order 2.5" and 3" spacers. I don't want the bolt to hit the steering knuckle.
     
  6. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Wow, you're hitting the steering knuckle? I just bought the replacement that fits the 71 Buick GS and it works fine. I haven't measured but they look like they are about 3" to me. It does look like you have plenty of clearance between the upper ball joint and the top of the sway bar bolt.

    Is your sway bar centered in the frame brackets? What's it look like on the other side? If height is the issue, you can trim the tube spacers as long as you keep it even side to side. I had more than enough threads on my long bolt to accommodate a shorter spacer.

    Here's a pic I found on a Chevelle site that is what I'm talking about where the sway bar rubs the tie rod ends. He needs a taller spacer between the ends.

    DSC09691.jpg
     
  7. srb

    srb Well-Known Member

    It almost did, it was really close. Currently it's laying in parts, but this was how it was:

    [​IMG]

    I bought new end links which are 3" and I just checked, the ones you see on the picture are the same size.

    I over tightened them here I guess, the rubber bushings are squeezed to much, but that obviously doesn't make a difference here.
     
  8. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I'd turn the bolt over, let the head of the bolt be on top then it surely avoids the contact. All mine are like that. Plus, if you lose the nut, most of it stays on the car.
     
  9. 72newbiebuick

    72newbiebuick Gold Level Contributor

    Stefan,

    This is a pic with the wheels off the ground right? I saw the same thing on mine and was all worried about hitting the knuckle. Then I put the car back on the ground and the weight made everything space out.. no way to hit it. Try it out before changing things out?

    Mark




     
  10. srb

    srb Well-Known Member

    Yes you're right, the pic is with the wheels of the ground. I've looked up a pic with the wheel on the ground and then the clearance s good. Don't know why I was worried then :)
     
  11. buicks

    buicks Well-Known Member

    Where is the best deal on a 1.25 bar?
    (Besides the boneyard)

    Thanks
     
  12. ctlikon

    ctlikon Well-Known Member

  13. buicks

    buicks Well-Known Member

    That is a good deal. I see Summit has an ADDCO bar for $99 and poly frame bushings and mounts for $17. I already have the endlinks/bushings in poly for the stock size, I should be able to just re-use those right?

    Anything low quality about the ADDCO bar? Thanks
     
  14. ctlikon

    ctlikon Well-Known Member

    No, great product!
     
  15. drspencer

    drspencer Well-Known Member

    This is happening to me on my '71 GS.

    Almost embarrassed to ask, but exactly how do I rotate the tie rod adjuster clamps? Just loosen them and rotate them out of the way?

    Do I have to realign after?

    Thanks
     
  16. bignastyGS

    bignastyGS Maggot pilot

    You know you can cut the bolt off with a sawzall or something after it's tight? They aren't that expensive to buy if you need to replace them..
     
  17. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Just rotate the clamp and NOT the sleeve IF it is necessary and you won't change toe.
     
  18. buicks

    buicks Well-Known Member

    Going from stock to 1.25, can the same endlink parts be re-used?
     
  19. sriley531

    sriley531 Excommunicado

    Yes. When I upgraded to the 1.25" bar from the stock one, my end links were practically brand new and I reused them. Bolted up just the same with the bigger bar.
     
  20. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Double nut the nuts & then they WON'T fall out from loosening.

    Just loosen & turn one clamp at a time.
     

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