Discussion in 'Tomahawk Block Buildups' started by Michael Evans, Dec 9, 2013.
Hyd or solid grind?
If solid, show me a picture of your lifters.
They are solid roller. Here is a link to TA lifters (and picture) until I can get actual picture (s) of mine.
BTW- I have stage one type heads.
The roller lifters for the TA block are slightly different to the ones you have linked to. The top piece above the oil groove is longer to allow for the extra material in the valley and so the anti rotation brackets don't hit the boss in the valley.
Here is a pic of mine before I dropped them in.
Part number TA 1413-1
another "oh by the way".
I will look into this tomorrow.
Maybe with my reduced lift cam, it my clear.
Who's building this for you?
Which heads will you be using?
I learnt most of what I know about the TA block from reading Jim's E85 555cui build thread. Most of what you need to know is thankfully written by Jim.
The guy is a retired mechinest that is 73 years old. About 35 years ago when Big Block Chevy engines were just coming out in aluminum and were priced very high. Since in his opinon they were so high and not as strong as he needed he made his own block from a solid block of aluminum.
I got a set of very earily Aluminum Bulldog heads that has been adjusted by me.
I went over to see the new engine and got the bad news. The lifter bar hits on three cylinders (one real bad) that I tested, so I even if it hit on one cylinder a new set would be needed.
The further I got the the rear the worse/more the lifter hit.
If it were not for having 820 pounds on the nose (and lifter raised), I would suggest milling the tops of the lifter bores.
Even that would be a trial and error to get correct.
Good news was that he got the cam degreed in.
Brought the long block home today so I can get a start on putting the outer sections of the engine back on.
Talking to my engine builder I was telling him about Royden's lifter valley pan under his intake. After learning of the oil leak/ no vacume he said why don't you build "stands" to hold up the middle of the valley pan to keep the ends down and sealed. Use the holes already drilled and taped in the valley.
I have the Mopar ( Dodge ) intake conversion that does not have any water flowing through it.
After some measuring, I fiqured I need them to be 1.272 inches tall. I just cut and countered bored to fit a allen head bolt that is 1.250 long.
with them installed.
Put the timing cover/water pump on and found the three main bolt holes are not that deep from the face on the right side (close to the oil pump).
Not sure if the water and oil ports are closer to the front so I desided not to make the holes deeper but to tap to the bottom and trim the bolts.
Looking at the mounting for the alternater and Procharger, the front of the heads to the block front are different than the iron block.
Plan "A" and "B" for the alternator mount is going to be changed to something different. The mount I made a few months ago for the alternator and the
factory mount can not be used so I must make new one.
Got to do some more on the outside tonight.
Here is a peak.
Looking good there Michael.
Yep that looks killer!!! Congrats on pulling it together so quickly once the block arrived.
Looks killer, and should run accordingly! Why did you pull vacuum from both covers?
I had everything here already I just took everything from my last iron block
---------- Post added at 11:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:22 AM ----------
My theory is "recovery time". I plan on only running five or so HG to make it easier on the vacume pump.
The last engine with the Procharger would spew oil after 1/8 mile.
my lifter bores are milled down. no trouble here. 6.89 @ 203
Was wondering how much you milled off and where on the lifter bore you did the milling.
In my case it was 2.375" from the base circle of the cam to the top of the lifter bore. It is also 2.375 inches from the roller to the lifter link bar on the older lifter that I was told were TA.
I was thinking of milling the lifter bores, but the engine was 80% put together when I found it (the bar hitting). I would have to disassemble the entire engine then clean after the milling.
The 1413-1 lifters came in today and they measure 2.575" from the roller to the lifter link bar.
I am going to start with these push rods that I had in my iron block to see if they are the correct length.
It was a few years ago that I did this.. so I don't remember how much I took off. The milling was done straight down from the end rails of block.
I've considered a larger cam shaft, but Tony at AES has said I won't be able to get a large enough push rod to handle the spring pressure. Have you looked into this? I currently run a Manton 3/8 heavy wall push rod. I have less spring pressure than you. I run TA heads.. so maybe the Bulldog head allows for a bigger push rod.
In the stock block I Ran 335 on the seat and 850 over the nose with a tall lifter
(old crane style with seat on top) 200 off set for the Stg4's . I used a 3/8" pushrod
but it was short 8.050 with the tall lifter no problem. Tried to use the same on the
Aluminum block but the cross bar on the old style lifter is too low so had to go with new
style lifter , they are not available in .200 offset because the cup is down inside the lifter and there is no room for
the pushrod with that much offset. .180 seems to be the max. These lifters made the pushrods longer
less offset caused interference at the head and i wanted to run more spring pressure with the turbos.
ended up running tapered pushrods 3/8to5/16 on intakes and 7/16 to 3/8 on the exhaust.
No problems 350/900 plus.