I mocked it up using a SBC chart and adjusted for Nailhead firing order - I'll check if this works tomorrow...
Right on. Dad is an engineer and does this stuff in his head, makes me feel like a dummy. Are you using some Tom Roller Rockers or adjustable pushrods? last one I adjusted with Tom's I was wishing for shorter pushrods as the adjustment was close to max.
Wasnt hard, just had to sit and really think about it...... Adjustable pushrods, stock rockers on this version.. I have the solids and rockers waiting for when I want to turn up the dials
After being off the road for 3 years, we're finally up and running! Literally installed the new lifters and set pre-loads Saturday, and drove 100 miles to race on Sunday. Raced in the FAST Pure Stock class, got 4 runs in with no tuning, pulled two 14.3's @ 96, and two 14.1's @ 97. Once I play with it a little, I think my target of 13.5 is totally within striking distance.
Another pic from Plooza, but this one shows what a 1.5 inch extension of the oil pan looks like on these cars...nice shiny new!
Looks pretty close to pulling a driver front wheel if you ask me. Funny to see you half smiling half gritting your teeth
Doc - all things in time. I actually had to pull this engine again. I was still getting what I thought was valvetrain noise and lifter wear, even after a couple of tries at preload adjustment and the trip to the track. Turns out I was chasing two problems at least. The noise turned ut to be the pistons hitting the heads as shown in the picture. I talked to Russ Martin, he says that the stock CADCAM desig of the nailhead piston that most AM piston manufacturers use is incorrect, and as such so were mine. The problem is in an odd spot, the lower contour of the angle cut on the dome, at the outboard side of the piston. the close up shots should show you what I mean. Russ says he sees it on most pistons these days, especially Egge. I am still trying to figure lifter wear. The lifter bodies are scuffing, but the bores are smooth with no peened edge (anymore, anyway) and havegood oil pressure and flow. And in experimenting with pushrod pre-load to chase that noise, I managed to wipe out a brand new cam. Yay me. And to add insult to injury, I put my old engine back in just to be able to drive the car for the summer, and the center electrode on a brand new Bosch plug fell out, the porcelain broke up and scored the bore and broke the piston skirt. Great running engine, instantly toast. I just really feel like hanging it up some days
Rhett, I have never used any sparkplug except, Motorcraft..... yes,, I know they are made by fomoco but they are the best..... period.... we pressure tested them and they fired 20 # higher than any other plug available..... it is bad that you got foreign material damage to that new engine.... sorry friend..... as for the other stuff.... looks like oil failure to me... and you did lose the cam.... did you use moly grease like I advised ???? I will call you there is stuff that I have to say that I dont want to post here.... Doc.....
Doc - per our conversation - here's the close up of the lobe and lifter - the cam company told damage like this is often a pre-load issue, but I'm a little skeptical
wow, that stinks that you're having all these issues. I can totally understand you feeling like hanging it up after 2 major setbacks in such a short time span.
Sorry to see this episode. On a side not when not going for originality I like Motorcraft too. Filters, battery cables, etc.
ahhh - dont sweat it.. everything is gonna get squared away on both engines, it's just frustrating and I'm just venting. Hopefully the piston observation helps people in the future, I'll take some detail shots of how the aftermarket piston domes need to be modified to avoid the issue.
Rhett did you break in the cam and lifters with both springs or just the inner springs? I always do my engine break ins with just the inner springs I know its a pain in the butt to put the outer springs in after the cam and lifters are broke in,
Starc, the cam company was actually cool with my break in pressures. On that topic, a big shout out to Camcraft who didnt have to do anything, but cut me a pretty nice deal on the replacement cam. They also asked me to use their lifters on the next cam so they could stand behind any potential warranty issue, and cut me a significant deal on those as well...
with faster ramp cams and solid lifters you would never adjust them that way, you could get away with it on hyd lifters most likely. proper way is when exhaust just starts to open you adjust the intake valve on that cyl. then when the intake valve opens all the way and starts back up to close, you stop half way back up before it closes, then you do the exhaust valve
Joe , ultimately I agree. I adjusted these valves all sorts of ways and nothing beats visual confirmation of adjusting on the heel of the lobe. Drove me crazy that I still had noise and I kept trying increasingly imprecise methods until I probably bottomed out a lifter and gouged the cam. All that for nothing, the noise wasnt even valvetrain related. I do think this methd is OK for engines with mild cams and hydraulics, but understanding how easy it is to get a visual on the cam/lifters I think it's worth the effort.
