In an effort to eliminate an intermittent driveline vibration, I'm on the hunt for an Olds transmission crossmember. According to George Nenadovich, the Olds crossmember (which bolts directly to the frame) is a direct replacement for the Buick piece that has brackets and rubber insolators. It's probably a stab in the dark, but I'd really like to find one in Ontario, Canada because I assume shipping will be expensive. That said, if you have one, let me know and we can see if we can get it to me at a reasonable cost.
I did the same thing years ago, after ripping one of the Buick cross members right out of the car. There are 4 different ones, BB Coupe, SB Coupe, BB Conv., and SB Conv. (The conv. styles are shorter for the boxed frames.) Either of the coupes would work on the Buick Coupes. I think the only difference would be the slot cut into the BB style for the parking brake. You could also use the Chevy style but it would look different, and again there are Coupe & convertible styles. Hope this helps. Duane
I have a few of the Oldsmobile crossembers for hardtops. They have the slot,which is correct for Buick big blocks. Located in Erie,PA.
I have the original trans cross member out of my '71 GS 350. 45 years in California has been very good to it... filthy but straight and no rust. PM me if interested
I almost never get an accurate price quote when shipping something through the post office. I did a quote from Erie PA to Ontario Canada,weighing 25lbs,and the dimensions of 48x3x6,and their quote is $107.75. I have shipped larger items to other countries over the water for less than that,so I’m not sure if it will cost that or not.
It is, but the crossmember can flex and vibrate inside the isolators, causing a driveline vibration. I replaced the rubbers and brackets and things improved, but it still vibrated at certain speeds. I'm trying to eliminate it altogether.
48" is the 33% price jump deal buster at least for my fed ex shipping 47" is 33% cheaper approx..... Scott
Just a thought; check your pinion angle, the angle between the driveshaft and the rear end. I've solved numerous vibration issues by correcting this. If the car has sagging springs, new, taller springs or a rear end swap, the pinion angle may not be ideal. The pinion should be "pointing" down slightly in relation to the driveshaft, and as the load on the rear increases, as the car accelerates, the pinion nose "climbs" to a relatively straight line with the driveshaft.
