Have I depicted my in/out-lines correctly for th350/radiator? Also....anybody know th350-gpm flow is? I use the 5 gpm flow in my drawing bcs I remember reading that's what it was for a powerglide trans @2000rpm
Yeah, that looks good, but I would not run a thermostatic valve. First, I don't think they are necessary unless you live at the north pole, and second, I would not want to introduce any restriction to flow in the cooler circuit. One of the things that can wipe out an engine thrust bearing is excessive pressure in the cooler circuit that pushes the converter into the crank. I might be wrong about that, but I remember Yardley having all kinds of problems with several transmissions that turned out to be a restricted cooler. I would just run the cooler in series and check the temperatures with infrared thermometer, and go from there.
my worries are running to cold...... many are seeing below-150 but your right......start without thermostatic valve
For heat to get to the thermostatic valve it would need a small bypass, Or does it have one built into it? seems overly complicated to me. If worried about too cold why not run it thru your radiator oil cooler only, Monitor tranny temps and if they get too high then install the remote cooler.
you could Run your oil temp off of the oil out line instead of the pan, This will be the hottest the oil will be.
thermostatic valve has...10%min-flow never closed out line..would be to hot .....imo-need normal operating temp....pan oil is what the pump will pickup all the temp charts are based on sensor in oil pan.....one would assume but it would be nice and have both just to see what the difference would be
I think I would pass on the external filter and thermostat. Neither are needed, and they add a bunch of extra connections that could leak. If you are running a converter with any stall I think you will see on the temp gauge that too cold is not an issue unless you are inside the arctic circle.
hmm , got me thinking...easy set up.... run one sensor at the out line and another sensor in the pan and with a small 3 way switch I can get both readings off the same gauge..... I will put that one on the list
well all that scribbling up above was me bored just flying some ideas...while taking all feedback under consideration . first thing I do ...(rebuilt motor/rebuilt trans soon) is hook up the stock lines onto aluminum radiator and since new I will run with synthetic atf and also the remote filter bcs of break in of trans first 1000 miles so I can crack open that filter and have a look....while monitoring the trans temps and then seeing whats up .
Please , tear up that piece of paper and erase all that from your mind. Read Larrys post and do the bypass method. One thing you can do is if your car has pathetic 5/16 cooler lines replace them with 3/8 lines. Also replace the fittings on the transmission with ones off a 700r4. They will match the 5/8 wrench fittings on the 3/8 lines. Add a trans cooling fan to the front of your cooler. 12 volt motorcycle fans work great. It really looks like your trying to build a grenade.
I mentioned the fan because you have it as far as possible away from your radiator. You wont have any cooling from rad fan like when your not moving, if your far away as possible. Dont waste money on synthetic oil in your tranny. The deep pan will just be a speed bump scraper, not recommended. Again Grenade.
