I recently bought a 462 with stage 2 aluminum heads and stage 2 headers for the 65-67 a body. I was wondering what oil dipstick you all use with this. The factory 1967 dipstick or 1970 with a tube will not clear spark plugs or the header . I see the original 1970 factory stage 2 had an oil dipstick that appears to be a 1970 model. Is the header designed for no dipstick? I am not a fan of no dipstick to check the oil in this street car. Any help appreciated.
I have the same problem with my 67 stage 2. No good answer yet. TA said "it should work", but others said they just plugged the hole and watch for leaks. I assume... if no leaks or no smoke out the tailpipe, we must assume all is well till the next oil change.
I used the plain stick from the earlier 70s that did not require a tube. I did have to grind down the stop disk that is on the stick. I was not aware of this when I bought mine either.......I tried making tube and cable, but did not like how the cable would flex towards the crank. ta sells a kit that you have to do some fab work to fit.
I think I may modify the one runner pipe to clear that. It cannot hurt hp that much. I have to know how much oil I have at a given time as well as quality of it. They should have designed it to work with the dipstick.
The TA 1500B is a dipstick and tube kit where the bracket for the tube is not attached. We use this on aluminum headed engines. Stick the tube into the block, bolt the bracket to the head and then braze the tube and bracket together. Alternatively you can use the earlier style dipstick that doesn't require a tube and seals to the block. We are reproducing this style dipstick and hope to have it in stock soon. Aluminum heads might need to have the relief increased though.
I could not get the older dipstick to clear with the cover that seals to the block and I tried a 70 tube and it would not bend correctly to clear the header. Very disappointed. This disclaimer should be in the explanation or description when looking to purchase the headers and or heads.
I used a later model tube/dipstick - the one with the "rubberized" handle. Bob (Torqued455) installed the tube for me with some of "the right stuff" and he told me the full level on the stick was reading correctly. UticaGeoff
I don't know the part # or year. I just remember a thread about dipsticks and someone stating the ones with rubberized handles were from later than 72 455's. My motor is currently in JW's possession. Maybe you could pm him and ask him if there is a part # on the dipstick. He may not get back to you right away as I believe they buried his girlfriend's son today. I am sorry I cannot be more help. UticaGeoff
The dipstick tube might need to be bent a little to fit cars with headers. We designed the tube based on a stock tube, and a stock tube has to be bent to fit as well. We cant get the tube to fit both, it has to be one or the other unfortunately. I will add a note to the product description though.
Very curious what everyone is doing besides NOT running a dipstick. I purchased a set of stage 2 TA heads and TA2014CHC headers fr my 65. Along with the TA dip stick with tube that was supposed to work. I dont see any way a dipstick can be installed?? Number 5 header tube blocks it pretty bad. My search results come up with broken links and those who have chose to plug it and run without. any alternative locations? maybe modify the oil pan to accept an oil dipstick?
The dipstick tube can be made to fit and it will work, I have modified many. I'm sure I have photographed this tube but have no idea where to look. Would be easier to just make another I think. I use a tube bending tool with the round aluminum mandrels, with a plier handle. You can only bend the tube in the same direction as the current sweep in the tube otherwise you will not get the dipstick in. The dipstick it's self can only bend in one direction so if the tube has a two directional bend the stick will not be happy and most likely not want to go in. I do this on an engine stand and bolt the header on with two bolts , one at each end. This way I can loosen the bolts and take one out to get the tube in and out of the block. Once I get the tube to fit then I fab a bracket to hold it in place. Most of the time I use the bracket that cam in the kit. I flatten it out and re-bend it. Most of the time I attach it to the header bolt, for this the bracket needs to be bent into an L at the Hole end. I normally, CAREFULLY drill the hole in the bracket larger so the bolt fits though better. Drill before you bend the L tab. Get the L bend close to the tube so you have room to get your wrench on the header bolt. The bracket will run along the header tube maybe a 1/2" inch then another slight bend towards the tube. I curl the end a little to try and hook the tube. Once I have the tube fit, header bolted on, bracket in place and everything adjusted to my liking's I get the oxyacetylene torches and braze the bracket to the tube. Now, I will just braze a small area to hold it then remove and finish the brazing off the engine because I don't want to take a chance with the flame against the head or header to long. The reason I bend the bracket this way is so you can get to the header bolt easily and it's out of the way. I have also made brackets that go the other direction, away from the tube and I drill and tap the header flange and attach that way. Hope this opens up your imagination into options. If I can find pictures or the next time I make one I will get photo's up for review. You can do it!
Pics would be great, all the links I find here are all broken. I have a mock up motor in the car now to verify my headers clear everything before being sent out to be coated. Ill be pulling it all out this week and put it on the engine stand and take another look at the dipstick routing.
I attempted this tonight. On the engine stand. I don’t see this working without denting a header or removing material from the head. The header wants to pinch and crush the tube between the head and header. The pics I found show a very different looking header then the style I’m running in my 65. As it looks right now my spark plug boots will be touching the header tube.
brock, your tubes are in a different spot than mine for sure. you might just have to make some clearance room on that tube. just mark it , heat it and make the room you need. I had to clearance mine down by the control arm. my motor is moved back some........it just is what is. your not going to kill flow to hurt anything
Im running the TA TA2014CHC headers for the stage 2 heads in a 65 skylark 455. What year is your car? is it 64-67?
