Looks like I'm in the market for another crank shaft. havent had it checked yet but really doubt it can be turned enough to get rid of the damage. This is the second one in just over 2 years so I may want to go with a hardened unit. Whats out there?
I sure wish I knew where. After the last time I invested nearly 2000.00 into the oiling system. Every possible mod has been made to the block and added an ext Peterson pump. Whatever it is its not for lack of trying.
Briz. I didn't know the aftermarket made cranks. 1 of These is out of a 73 Riv. It was cut but I would have to look to see what it was cut to. The other was out of a 74 LeSabre that spun a bearing so it was never cut. I'll send you a PM
Briz make sure you check the press fit of the main caps into the block. They should have a few thou press fit. If not things can move more than they should.
I believe that I still have one down here in South Florida. If interested, email me direct: drolds1@bellsouth.net. Thanks, Bob.
The first time it went south the mains got all messed up and loose. Spent 600$ getting them resized and a line bore done. The mains were showing very little ware this time. Just the rods got toasted this time around. The front one was the worst and took out the crank (#2rod) and number 7 was into the copper. all the rest looked nearly new. If I cant find something aftermarket, and I most likely wont, will probably take you up on that.
Two options there crower is 12+ weeks $2800+. Moldex who knows how long $3k+ O'Riley's or Advance may can get one
There is a third option as well, I have never ran one or known anyone personally, but when I was up to finish line this spring getting my motor, we were talking. Bob said they can modify a Chrysler crank to make it fit our blocks. I know it takes a different flange on the end, but sure what else is involved, or the final cost. He said that it was cheaper than any other option out there. I do know the 440s you can get, 4.125, 4.250, and 4.50 stroke options most of the time for right around or under 1,000. So for 1800 more to get to a cowers price I'm sureally you can do a lot of machine work
Briz,I have a crank that is offset for 470 however it is for internal balance and also aluminum rods I don’t know if you’re interested but I have GRP rods and crank , Flexplate you would just need a ATI internal balance balancer .the crank is knife edged and micro polished if you’re interested PM me
I think I remember seeing pictures of that. Its a nice piece. Not so sure I want to change up my build that much.
Do you know What the Weight of your pistons is. if you are close on the weight of what my set up was and the balance is close you really wouldn’t have to change anything, except the balancer which is under $300. Just a thought. I’m currently building a T/a block and have a lot of good quality parts that I would like to sell.
Guys, ..... if Steve is still running my old set-up then the pistons are 1.325" compression height, 518 grams, .990 pins. I special ordered those pistons from Arias to be used with the Crower Steel Billet rods I had made that are 7.250". Because of that I don't believe the pistons would work with a 470 rod which are usually 6.8". Also that Fisher damper/balancer I sold Steve has an external balance hub. I also believe the flexplate would have to be changed out to a neutral balance or the current external balance flexplate modified. Basically I feel you would starting from scratch. I'm not trying to blow a good deal from Tom, ..... just supplying info. Larry
Couple things to mention. For the 3.25" main bore, the only crank option that I am aware of that will drop right in, besides a stocker, is the Moldex or Crower Billet crank, cost will be just shy of 4K.. the forged 44o crank core will not finish at 3.25", will just barely finish at 3".. I look at those pictures on facebook, and consider what you have for oiling, and if it were here, the very first thing I would do is clean the block all up, put the main caps and girdle back on, torque it with the exact same lube and procedures/torque values that you used when assembling it. Then I would stick my dial bore gauge in in it and see what it looks like.. you should take it to a different machine shop than did the work last time, have them measure the main housings for size, and most importantly out of round. If the mains are big at the parting like, and they often get that way, then it will hemorrhage all the oil before it properly pressurizes the rods. Mains will look just fine, rods will be burned out of it. IF that is fine, then have them untorque it, and take it apart, and then put it all back together again, and see if it repeats. A weak/thin block will not repeat sometimes. If it repeats, and is round and in size, then you either had insufficient main/rod clearance, or insufficient supply to the mains, or you have a tune up issue.. detonation will also cause this damage, although it also usually distresses the mains, if it is severe enough to do the damage that I saw to the rods bearings. If the mains are too wide at the parting lines, then you start over with another block. There is no way to reliably fix it once it's honed too big. Honing a girdled block is not the best option for something you invested in installing a girdle on, years ago we went to line boring the block slightly, after the girdle is installed. Then it's just touched with the line hone to surface finish it for heat transfer. They turn out some much nicer with the line bore procedure, because if you have room at the parting line to just clean it up a touch, and keep it in spec, you end up with really nice round bores.. if it's already too big there, there is no fixing it. If the block is good, then go after oil volume.. does the block have the groove in the upper main saddles, and have you drilled extra holes in the mains.. if not, that is the first place to go. Open the main clearance up to at least .0028-.0032 and run the rods at just shy of .003 You have plenty of volume capability with your external pump. I know this gets really disheartening, and expensive, you have been fighting this issue for some time now. I really suspect the block, you have the classic symptoms of main out of round issues.. max out of round is .0005. Remember P series bearings are not round, they get about .0015 thinner as they go to the parting line, and if the block is big at the parting line, you can get .004-.006 clearance there very easily. Good luck JW
