Other than the stock oil sender is there another oil port to put gauge in ? just don't trust factory gauge & want a more accurate reading its a 1970 350 Thanks
I use a "T" fitting and am able to run the sender unit/switch for the idiot light an oil pressure line for a mechanical(fluid) gauge and I have a switch to control two fuel pump relays. This way, if I lose oil pressure, I get the light, fuel pump shuts off and the gauge is still able to show me pressure at all times. 20171220_224122 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM 20171220_224105 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM 20171220_224053 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM
I use a "T" fitting and am able to run the sender unit/switch for the idiot light an oil pressure line for a mechanical(fluid) gauge and I have a switch to control two fuel pump relays. This way, if I lose oil pressure, I get the light, fuel pump shuts off and the gauge is still able to show me pressure at all times. You should be able to run both the light and the gauge. If you cannot find the parts, message me and I will help source them out and post them for you. Do you already have a gauge? 20171220_224122 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM 20171220_224105 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM 20171220_224053 by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM
Ok thanks on all the info. now not to offend its hard to see location as mine is near the oil filter pump area your eng. is super clean but the color & the location going into the your block it looks like a nailhead 66 & back as the 350 ( red ) in mine was born in 68 & lived to 80 my eng. in very dirty has over 160,000 also just got it ! Thank again for your in-put
No offense taken, it's all sharing of knowledge. Yes, it is a nailhead, just showing one way to set up and provision multiple sending units/switches. I will be doing the same thing on a 430. I am still doing some mods to the block , so I do not have pics. (350 is very much the same as the 430).
This is what I did on my 350 in my Regal. Your sender/switch will be different. I had to file down a face of the T as it would hit the block, but it fits. Copper line goes to a gauge in the car.
There are a number of ways to use commonly available brass fittings to tee in 2 or more gauges. You can also read pressure from the rear of the block but that is a lot more work. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/gauges.197307/
Thanks guys for all that info. i now see how tight that area is to set-up & the alternator has to come off i would be interested in that rear of block tap ? if anyone has a pic of block location ( 350 ) i had good luck with PB Blaster as i used it to get plug out of manifold for water temp sensor as i want to see how off the factory gauges are ! again want to do the same with oil the key with any penetrating product is soak, tap (hit with hammer or low setting on air gun ) & heat (if in a safe area to apply ) over a long period of time in most cases it will un-do Thanks again
You will need to pull the tranny, and flex plate/flywheel, remove the passenger side oil plug for the passenger side lifter oil gallery and install a 90 elbow turned in far enough to have about 1/2 clearance to the flex plat/flywheel and (preferably) steel braided line. You will need to drill a hole in the webbing at the back of the engine block where the bell housing mates. (This is a V6, but similar to the 350 for illustrative purpose) The biggest hurdle is the removal of the galley plug, as it may require torch to heat it, and doing so, while underneath, make sure you have a fire guard with a good fire bottle, cuz it is harder to get out from underneath, grab the fire bottle and apply it. And make sure you co-ordinate shutting your eyes and holding your breath when your fire guard pulls the pin and squeezes the handle. (Ask me how I know...)
Wow great detail & work !! well i did ask Thanks for all that info. And i was complaining about needing to remove the alternator & all that grease / dirt around that area ! the best time to do this is wen your rebuilding the engine or if you need to change / rebuild the tranny So i got 160,000 + miles of grease to clean but Thanks again for all that detail
I didn't have to remove the alternator. Plenty of room to do it from underneath then snake the line up. I just did it because I also replaced that freeze plug in the head (after picture was taken).
If you do this mod it is not that much harder to add the bypass line from the pump to the back side of the block. The advantage there is you do not loose oil pressure from the front side to the back side.
Don't you love how Nesmith asked for a good multi vitamin and we end up advising him on how to do open heart surgery.
In a previous life, I was the "old school" lunch lady. Piled your tray high with some of everything, so you didn't go away hungry. But, you don't have to eat it all.
Guys this is my first buick even thou i have worked on cars the past 50 years it was just service work Since this is a very high mileage car the original owner reminded me that the clock has stopped for a while then restarts then stops & starts he's own this car since practically new he thinks over 200,000 Anyway thought there was another port buried some were easy but got a good future mod. idea Was under there last nite theres a ton of dirt ! so don't mind getting the alt. out of the way to a good job & putting tee set-up in i am old so go easy lol Thanks again guys
I just knew somebody was going to do this. Was even thinking of it myself. Just too bad there isn't an easier way. Of course in most cases it IS overkill. Jim