How do you separate the pitman arm from the drag link on 62 Lark?

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by dr, Aug 14, 2018.

  1. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    I'm swapping the power steering for manual. I do not see how to separate the pitman from the drag link? Where is the bolt? How is it attached?
     
  2. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    There should be a castle nut on the top of the pitman with a cotter pin through it. You'll need a tie rod separator to break the taper on the arm
     
  3. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    I will look again. Grease may be hiding it. LOL
     
  4. woody1640

    woody1640 Well-Known Member

    I just looked at mine and the center link sits on top of the pitman arm and the castle nut is on the top side. It should remove somewhat easy if you follow the steps I suggested to you in the pm I sent earlier.


    Keith
     
  5. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    Not a castle bolt.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Remove the cotter pin from the end of the drag link. Then unscrew the big hex head screw. It doesn't have to come all the way out. remove Pitman arm from center link.
     
  7. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    The end of the drag link. Hmm I don't think I looked there. I will give it a peek Thursday
     
  8. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    Thanks
     
  9. woody1640

    woody1640 Well-Known Member

    Wow that is way different looking than mine or any of the ones I have worked on. But all the ones I've worked on here were 63's though. I know GM did a center link upgrade for the 63 Skylarks, but the pitman arms were supposedly the same (only different between manual and power). I sold a manual gearbox & pitman arm to a group member a year or so ago and he bolted in his 62 Skylark, so I'm not sure what to think here.


    Keith
     
  10. 66electrafied

    66electrafied Just tossing in my nickel's worth

    As Tom says, pull the pin at the end and unscrew the big head screw at the end.
    When you get the ball out of the socket, ensure that none of the concave bearing races come with it (not sure if that application has them still, but the earlier cars did) and stay inside the drag link. Inspect them to ensure that they're in good shape, if it's all rusty and whacked out of shape, they'll need to be replaced. On some there is a small fitted splash guard cover between the ball and the actual arm, that doesn't come off, just make sure it's in good shape and doesn't impede movement. Replace whatever you're looking to replace, (usually it's the idler arm that goes, hardly ever seen a pitman arm go). The idler arm replacement kit usually consists of a new shaft but the actual ball and socket arm is reused. Reinstall it with the ball packed in grease. Tighten the big screw up to well seated, ensure there's room for the cotter pin, and then yank on the draglink to ensure it is seated and not going to pop apart.
    What can go wrong on them is the ball can erode, the bearings can erode, and the whole thing can be loose. This is usually from a lack of grease, or a bad grease nipple which prevented all that grease around it from getting in.
     
    woody1640 likes this.
  11. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    Thanks guys.
    It was a choir to get the 4 bolts free from the steering box and the frame (really only one bolt). Every thing is in good shape I just cold not get a wrench on the nut inside the frame. Once the steering box was free I thought "I'm done" then I could not see how the Pitman was connected to the drag link
     

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