It would be extremely odd for an 1980 Car to have an 8.2. It was discontinued back in 72 Yes some of the bigger cars got the 7.5 as early as 77. And pretty common by 1981 in caprice, olds regency/delta , Electra lesaber. But it looks like an 8.5. 7.5 does not have the side c shape in cover.
Hey every one been awhile, i still have the Buick been working on it little by little and i just wanted to run down all the minor things ive got done some are things u guys told some not so much. First i placed every vacuum line and hose that did not meet my standards so i would said 87% percent of them Next almost the whole brake system as well Next i clean the carb. And put a new fuel filter in because it wouldnt stop stalling Then i purchased the re curve kit and didnt put it in lol I gave it an oil change and switched it to 10w30 synth blend Next is the ac system before summer comes around along with the rest of the vaccum lines but i messed up what looks to be a TVS "Thermal vacuum switch" and man is that part hard to fine let alone get the correct name.
Make sure the oil your using has a decent level of zzdp/zinc additive or get some addictive like cam break in additive, or stp . Im not aware of lucas additive having higher levels of zinc but it may.
Your engine needs zinc. Next oil change or asap drain that oil and find a quality NON SYNTHETIC oil and add zinc. Flat tappet engines need it to promote the longevity of the valvetrain. Use a good filter too. Whatever the parts store book reccomends for your car as a factory replacement. I use AC Delco or Bosch, whatever one I happen to walk by first. I have the Bosch 3423 on my car now. If you can find it, my local napa is the only one near me that carries it, Valvoline VR1 comes in a 10w30. It has zinc premixed in. Thats what I run. Diesel oil doesnt have as much zinc as it used to but some people use that. Dont run thicker (higher number) oil than 10w30, especially when cold. It will stress the pump. Imagine trying to pump cold maple syrup vs warm. Warm is 10w30, cold is 20w50.
Ok so i added stp zddp the blue one and i think i might use the high mile next change i changed every light on the front of the car all 10 to be exact but i need to replace a blinker light socket on the passenger side but more importantly i think i ejected a spark plug on the passenger side bank as well smh will keep you guys posted on that too
Might as well do both head gaskets. Good time to consider some big valves or bowl porting. Some head milling , possibly.
Very truu but i dont exactly have a large budget or disposable income or time for that matter really, my last day off was yesterday for the next 16 days or so lol but i was gunna get all the gaskets for the top end of the motor and send away the carb for a full rebuilt while i was working on the top end
OK quick sit rep starter was also broken so I remove the starter and now im sourcing a new one Also I've been draining the car's oil Pan every day for the last 3 days and every day there somehow is more water in it not too sure if I'm gonna find anymore or if that's a sign that may be my head gaskets are not blown if anybody has further information on this I'm just learning as I go so any info is appreciated
You're not still driving or running the car right?? If so, stop now! Water will mix with the oil and cause it to loose it's important lubrication properties and could wipe bearings and cause a bunch of other issues. Use a compression or leakdown tester to verify what's going on. Or you could use a cheap borescope to check cylinders for coolant. Doing a head gasket isn't hard, worst part is probably removing/installing those heavy cast iron heads and maybe dealing with broken exhaust manifold bolts. Also, I would check the head gasket surfaces for straightness while they are off, it's possible for them to warp if the car overheated. If they are warped, get them resurfaced to make sure your new head gaskets seal well (should not be costly at a machine shop). Here's TA's document on torquing head bolts, should help. Good luck! http://www.taperformance.com/PDF/Head_Instructions.pdf Where are you located again?
No not at all i parked it as soon as it started running funny didn't even have a chance to over heat and im located in largo Florida at the moment
Ah gotcha, glad to hear!! If you were closer I would try and help but I'm all the way across the country over here in CA. At least you don't have to deal with crazy CA emissions! On reusing head bolts, you'll probably hear lots of different opinions. I think that our engines do not use torque to yield fasteners for the heads, so they can be reused. However, I'm the type to never reuse hardware unless it's hard to get or I need to fix it right that moment, so in your situation I would probably grab a new set of ARP head bolts. Let us know when you verify the problem!
