I guess the title says it all. I am getting ready to remove the body of my 69GS400 convertible from the frame. Actually, I hope to lift the body and roll out the old frame and roll in the new. I will be replacing the frame, body bushings, and floorpan. Does anyone have a list or can provide some tips of what to disconnect and where? I am afraid I will learn a hard lesson by leaving something connected or by disconnecting something at the wrong location. For instance, where is the best location to disconnect the steering column/rod? I know what I need to do as far as bracing and jacking, based on other input from this site, but did not see any discussion of what to disconnect.
All body bushing bolts, fuel tank lines, emergency brake cable near the cowl, emer brake cable clips, shifter linkage, speedo cable, clutch linkage, fuel tank wiring, prob more I'm missing
pretend that u are pulling the engine and trans for motor work and that leaves very little left to disconnect.
The best thing u can do is to lift the whole car onto jack stands and follow the brake lines, front & rear and u can determine what & where to disconnect. I think that for the steering disconnect at the rag joint. Best I can advise at this time.
I have never removed my convertible body but every show on Velocity i've watched shows them bracing the door opening by welding square tubing in the door opening to prevent the body from bending and twisting as there is no roof to support it. If not it can sag in the front or back and your door gaps will all be off.
When taking convertible body off Frame. Am I over thinking this. But should you not make some reinforcements that goes from top of door hinge to Qtr. Striker then back to lower hinge? Weld up some kinda jig. For strength.
I have seen a lot of different bracing schemes on Google. I have a good brace set up, but it really depended more on the material I had available. Keep it from folding tip to tail (brace across door openings), and from racking (an X from side to side) I think it is solid, but will know for sure when I lift the body!
Ok I am ready to separate body from frame. Floor is out from kickpan to behind rear seat. Front clip removed. Body is braced well. My plan is to lift the front by the upper fender mounts on the cowl using an engine crane and the back just under the trunk edge where the bumper was by using a floor jack and wood. Trunk floor is not very sound so I cannot push from bottom in that location. Need to go to the very end under the trunk lid. I have heard of some folks lifting by the trunk latch. Think that would hold? Scares me unless I can verify someone has done it safely. Once I have the body lifted height enough I will slide the new pan and braces in and weld it back up. Do you think I can lift it as described? Only need about a foot of lift.
I have been restoring my 70 GS convertible on the frame since it has been a dry car since new. A couple of years ago, my body guy did a great job installing a patch core support/inner fender with the core support bushings. Is it possible to replace the remaining body bushings without separating the whole body from the frame and do one at a time? On the drivers side where the front to rear brake line and fuel lines are clipped would they have to be separated? I can disconnect them from the frame but do not want to break the lines themselves! (I just installed a new brake line there and would prefer not to disconnect it and have to bleed the brakes again.). Any advice is appreciated!
I have read on Chevelle boards that folks have done one side at a time, raising the body by the pinch weld. They cut a groove in a 4x4 and place under the rocker (put the seam in the groove) , and use bottle jacks to raise one side a few inches. I would think you need to loosen up the mounts on the other side quite a bit, especially the inner front cowl one, since that would be the most affected. Heck, I would probable remove the bolt from that one just to be sure. As far as disconnecting brakes, I am figuring that out as I go along, so no advice yet. Good luck
I got the body off today. Disconnected the brake lines at the master cylinder. Seemed like the best place and had no problem. Forgot about the speedometer cable. Got stretched tight, so I hope I didnt ruin anything. My luck has not been too good, so I am not optimistic. I raised the body by the upper door hing bolts. I made a bracket and used an engine lift. Nice wide attachments kept things from rotating. The rear of the car was more difficult. Dont lift from the trunk latch as some folks said, it seems way too weak. I used a four foot 4x4 across the lower lip of the trunk and c-clamped it in place. I put a heavy eye bolt in the 4x4 just rear of the rear trunk latch where the ass end bends inward. used a gantry to lift straight up. It worked but is a little tippy (left to right) being only one lifting point. But the two in the front help stabilize things. Got the body up 20 inches. I am now starting to dress up the attachment surfaces for the new floor.
