68 GS350 intake manifold

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by BILLS68GS, Jan 17, 2018.

  1. BILLS68GS

    BILLS68GS Well-Known Member

    Hi guys, question for ya's. I have a massive oil leak on the top passenger side between the valve cover and manifold. Ive done valve cover gaskets and even switched around the valve covers to see if it was a bent valve cover. I've been told and now guessing its the manifold gasket leaking. Soooo, Ive decided to just buy a new stage1 intake (havent yet) but real close.
    Just wanted to know if there is anything else I should buy while im in there doing the intake or do my problems sound even worse then just a intake manifold gasket? Cant even drive the car because of it. HELP please! Thanks Guys
    Bill
     
  2. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    Post a pic of area of leak. Seems odd as there is no oil pressure in intake . Possibly bad intake valley seals.
     
  3. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Don’t buy the TA intake just buy thier composite intake gaskets and a splash shield from AMP.
     
  4. BILLS68GS

    BILLS68GS Well-Known Member

    any reason y not to buy the ta intake? the intake that's on there now is from a 72. so I figured removing it and just putting a new one on since I'm there already. Appreciate the advise
     
  5. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    The stock one is heavy and hard to put on and off. With your combo the TA intake won’t give you much if any gain. Plus you can’t use the factory hot air choke with the ta intake.
     
    MrSony likes this.
  6. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    On a bone stock application, the TA intake is almost a hindrance. No choke provisions, taller than stock, not to mention little hp gains. For what they are and what they were intended to do, the stock intakes aren't really all that restrictive. It matches the heads, so to speak, in terms of flow. Plus, you'd be spending 400 bucks to shave 50 pounds. Not worth it imo. Same reason I won't spend 500 bucks on a set of headers to get 30hp. If I find em cheap enough, yeah, but unless I have aluminum heads, stock stuff is fine enough.
     
    Gary Farmer and 300sbb_overkill like this.
  7. BILLS68GS

    BILLS68GS Well-Known Member

    gonna do the composite TA gasket. What size should I get?
    .015
    .032
    .062
     
  8. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    I use .032 unless I have fitment issues in which case I use the other thickness.
     
  9. BILLS68GS

    BILLS68GS Well-Known Member

    i went to amps website and he is retired! I emailed him to see if he still has any for sale. But if he doesnt is there any other splash shields you recommend while still being able to put the TA Composite gasket in?
     
  10. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    TA performance has one as far as I know. But there is 2 screw bosses over the pcv that you can mount a small plate to block it from sucking oil.
     
  11. BILLS68GS

    BILLS68GS Well-Known Member

    thanks, mike at amp got back to me, he still makes the valley shields. All set!
     
  12. Gary Farmer

    Gary Farmer "The Paradigm Shifter"

    IF you get 30 hp. Everything works hand-in-hand, and the more one area is improved, the more the other areas need improving to match. As always, results will vary.

    It's far more involved to do a cam swap, which can often see less improvements than adding headers (and decrease the life of your engine if it's an aggressive flat tappet)--or even removing your factory fan and using electric fans! lol (this showed a 20-30 hp gain in another thread, but there will always be skeptics, even with the dyno showing hard data).

    I've always been an advocate of 'why bother if you'll only see xxx improvement, etc.' and there will always be gains to be had in areas involving air flow (which is pretty much the main purpose of an engine anyway, right?)

    Most if not all camshaft 'improvements' will never see even close to 30 hp gains, unless other areas of the engine can support it (or were hindered by it). It was always my desire to point this out to others who seemed to think that shoving in a cam was the simplest and easiest way to get power. Then the indexing threads came along to educate, and the ensuing discussions.

    (((recall that placing valve closing events sooner will boost dynamic compression, and is the majority of any power gains seen by doing cam swaps in an otherwise 'stock' environment. If one were to increase static compression (as with a rebuild with better pistons that would occur anyway) this would add dynamic compression to the same stock cam that was behaving timidly with lower static compression. In 'short', it's the compression increase you need when using stock stuff)))

    By far, the best way to get power is to simply match your parts and tune it the best you can. Compression increase to match the fuel you intend on using, match your gearing with the power output of your engine and car weight, remove parasitic loss that's taking power away in the first place, etc.

    Ignition and fuel delivery are key to getting the most out of your machine, no matter which hardware you decide on. Get that spark and fuel just right, and you'll wake up even a low comp bone stocker with tons of miles on it.

    Be one with your machine. Know your and its limitations. Always remember that no matter how fast you think you are, there's always someone out there who's faster. So what? Have fun and be safe.

    You don't have to be wealthy to enjoy your Buick...but it does help. lol
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2018
    MrSony likes this.
  13. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    Even still, in a mostly stock all iron engine, headers are kind of pointless. Unless it's a chebby and you can just find a set of headers lying on the ground, there's really no point. Especially that my car is a g body, and no where near as roomy as an A body under the hood. My SP 350 barely fits. I can't take the passenger valve cover off. But, that's not what this thread was about. :p
     

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