Are there any torque specs for the 4 rear axle shaft retaining bolts on a 65 Skylark? I don't imagine there is, but I will ask just in case.
Just my opinion, but using a torque wrench for things OTHER than than intake, head, rod, main bolts, or other critical fasteners is not only unnecessary, but ill advised. I've seen guys strip and break bolts trying to torque them to spec. You don't need a torque wrench for a carburetor or a water pump bolt. When I assembled my bolt in axles, I simply used my common sense and tightened the nuts that secured the retainer plate until they felt snug. Maybe 30-35 ft. lbs.
Just so everyone understands there is a torque rating for every manufactured bolt and nut. Most of the time things that affect torque ratings are - length of bolt, thread pitch, diameter of bolt and grade bolt (which would be the material and treatment of the bolt /nut system. Sometimes it is also what the bolt is clamping can determine the torque rating. For most the diameter and length and thread count can determine a general rule of thumb for torque rating. grade 5 or 8 is what we normally deal with on cars... IE - ring gear bolts 3/8" bolts normally in the 40-50 ft lbs. range 7/16" bolts in the 60-70 ft lbs. range. those are both 1" long bolts ...the longer the bolt usually less torque it will take to reach its threshold... most of the time if you tighten the bolts equally with a normal 6" wrench as tight as you can that will be sufficient... you will likely hurt your hand before a bolt will break... 30-40 is usually good for the flange bolts and nuts. 3/8" bolt Jim J D RAce
