Passenger side # 6 bolt snapped after thorough PBblaster soaking . The other bolts came out easy . I had an exhaust leak and removing the gaskets solved the problem on the drivers side My car is a 68 Custom convertible with A/C . Being the 6 cylinder bolt on an a/c car adds a new dynamic but fortunately I have 5/8” of bolt left sticking out of the head . More PB Blaster ( with a little tranny fluid) and heating w/ MAP gas and it still isn’t budging. Any more ideas ? The last resort is to weld a bolt on the end of the broken end . Any ideas that I haven’t done that worked for you or a friend please pass them on
You need some heat. Don't be afraid of the cast iron turning color a bit either. You need to be almost red hot but not quite. Then wack it with a hammer on the end if possible. Then twist out, hopefully.
The head was beginning to glow a dark red ; had MAP gas on it 2+ minutes ( with fire extinguisher 2’ away )
My best option ( maybe only option ) is my buddy bringing his MIG welder over and tacking on a nut to the end of it . Starting to chew up the bolt which will make getting a nut on there a PITA
Rich, You need to heat the head again. Putting a nut on the end isn't going to help you much as the vise grips should be grabbing that bolt so you can get some leverage on it. The vise grips aren't slipping is it??? IF it is you could be making it more difficult for yourself & welding on a nut may help because of the heat from welding. Just try going back & forth until you can feel some movement. Slow & steady, don't rush it. IF It was put in it will come out all it needs is more perswaytion.
I would tap the end of it with a hammer a couple of times, then lock the vice grips on as hard as possible, then heat the head with MAP gas, and try the back and forth?
If I remember correctly that is a through bolt - soak the back too! Kroil, ATF/Acetone, etc. something better than PB Blaster.
It is a through bolt & was able to put tranny fluid on it in addition to the PB oil . My buddy just dropped off his MIG welder plans on doing it tomorrow. I have some acetone, I’ll give that a shot w/ the tranny fluid one more time . Before it snapped this bolt was fighting me as I got 2-3 turns on it - Im a pretty strong guy and this bolt took probably 80% of my max . I kept stopping to soak it and rock it back and forth well aware that snapping could happen at any time .My luck ran out I guess
I have the same issue - different location. I plan on welding a nut on and hope the heat will bust it loose. A few folks have touched a small candle to the threads when its hot and the wax draws into the threads and seems to help lubricate the bolt.
Yep, legendary big ole pain in he butt. I've used vise grips, welded nuts to top, applied heat, etc. I've had some luck in the past with a pipe wrench. Sometimes you have to drill them out and re-thread. I've also had to take the head off and into a machine shop to get bolt drilled out when I couldn't get to them to drill them out in the engine bay. Best of luck.
You have enough shank to work with. Go to a tool store and invest in some quality stud removal sockets. Snap on sells some nice ones but they ain't cheap.
I've also heard of that before from many people when I was wrenching. Never tried it myself but I remember a guy working next to me that kept a candle in his toolbox for that purpose.
Heat,soak,cool,repeat. Always worked 95% of the time for me. Heat the head not the stud as has been mentioned previously. The fact it isn’t a blind hole is a plus. Lastly if you have clearance drill it out with a right angle drill and a short drill bit as a last resort. Good luck.
Got it out finally . Mug welded a nut on the end , slow turns rocking back and forth, all while heating the block w/ the MAP gas . This bolt fought to the end , Next up is chasing the thread holes while applying liberal amounts of anti- seize to the bolts
Rather than applying continuus force on something like this (which will break it) it's better to tap on it with a hammer.
