1966 Riviera GS Crank No start. Suggestions needed.

Not sure, it's not making any sounds. A friend suggested a automotive thethiscope.

 

Plugs were in when I turned it. I haven't turned an engine that wasn't locked up before. So I wasnt sure what it was supposed to look like.
I tightened the hose connection, it had a small leak when I did the 1st side. You are reading the numbers correct.

 

You do understand that help with Slow Cranking was my original ask. But everyone had other theories, that they were sure of. So I acquiesced and worked backwards. Now I hope I can get some slow cranking advice, since I have jumped through the prerequisite hoops.

 

I agree. I will try to prime the oil pump more aggressively. If that doesn't work. I will be selling it.

 

I'm seeing the opening thread that its a Riv GS but the engine doesn't have the GS dress up kit. Could it be a the original motor was swapped out?
I'm seeing dual electric fans, did this motor have overheating issues and someone swapped in the fans to try and help. Electrified mentioned the fire wall ground and i'm thinking a ground issue.

Hard turning over by hand at certain spots of the rotation tells my novice diagnostic skills that it's some type of really bad bearings thats worse as certain parts of the rotation or a warped crank from over heating.

Larry I quoted you because i'm thinking even with all issues of hard cranking it should still start but run awful?? Would swapping out from the original GS distro cause starting issues or more a performance tune?
Has to be ground somewhere.

 

That's a Cutlass Radiator I had left over from my last build. I did that in July while I was waiting for the HEI to come in the mail. Car was not running when I got it. I purchased it from a body shop, they trim had been removed. I was interested mainly because of the floor shifter. I couldn't get the Distro I sourced from a 65 Riviera to work. I doubt Im up for an engine pull. It will probably go up for sale. I have 1 more weekend of patience left. Haven't been able to find a Mechanic willing to touch it after they watch the videos.

 

If you got for a good price, I would keep it if you have the room. 66 and 67 Riv's are true beauty's and somewhat classic's. 401 and 425 Nailheads are out there kinda on the cheap but the rebuilds is were you would spend money.

How hard is it to remove the oil pan while the motor is still in the car.
Looking at a the bottom end is a good tell. Take a main cap of or two and check the bearings..

 

No need to : I enjoy the Suspense , Drama and Comedy !!

 

And again . Why not disconnect the torque converter from the Flex Plate , 3 bolts , and push the converter back towards the trans and see how it spins then ?? Perhaps the engine OR trans has been changed and the converter is not fully seated into the trans front pump .

 

Ok. I may be able to do that

 

That's not a job I'm up for. It's beyond my ability to fix if that is thats issue. That's why I didn't do it originally.

 

With all due respect to you Arnold what he's asking for you to try is actually easier than pulling the heads. I mean you pulled the heads you obviously know how to work a wrench. Unbolting the convertor and spinning it should be a cake walk unless I'm misunderstanding what he's asking you to try?

 

No , I believe you understand me completely . 3 bolts removed . Total time 15 minutes . Just involves jacking up car and laying underneath it .

 

Are the ground cables from both rear head bolts attached to the firewall??? I can see the ground cable on the left rear of cylinder head bolt seems to be attached to the rear bolt, BUT is it attached & secure to the firewall??? I can't see the right rear. Is that attached to the rear head bolt & the firewall??? Where is the ground cable attached from the battery??? Should be securely attached to the block somewhere usually attached to the rear of the P/S pump pivot bolt with a flat washer/external/internal toothed washer. Could be the cause of a slow crank condition.
I still believe you have a timing issue as evidenced by the blow back through the carb. initially.
Even IF ALL the cylinders had 60lbs. of compression the engine should still start. Maybe not smoothly & even be rough, BUT it should still start.
Even if the valves are not opening all the way could be because of a collasped lifter/lifters & once started will clack loudly & slowly quiet down once starting to run/warm up.

Tom T.

 

Yup, nicely said.

Like others said, you have showed wrenching ability. You learn as you go and again its not all the hard. Members will walk you through it if you have any issue's. I think like gsx455 mentioned it a good test to see if a issue.

 

Ill get under there and see if I can make sense of what he is suggesting. In my head I was seeing a Flex plate job where you rotate the plate and remove the bolts while they are in the exposed space.

 

I re-installed the Ground straps to the heads when I put them back on. I'll check the connection at the firewall while I'm looking at the flex plate.