Installing points conversion, and HEI System function, tests, and modification.

Discussion in 'Buick FAQ' started by LARRY70GS, May 13, 2012.

  1. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Les, It has to go somewhere. You have to find the other end. I posted the schematic above. Looks like it ends at some sort of plug on the firewall, #6 position?
     
  2. Les Modrow

    Les Modrow Gold Level Contributor

    Larry, any suggestions how to eliminate it? les
     
  3. Les Modrow

    Les Modrow Gold Level Contributor

    Larry, If I find the other end and take it out of the #6 plug and take it out of the ignition switch and run a single wire from the ignition switch to the #6 terminal at the bulkhead? Les
     
  4. Les Modrow

    Les Modrow Gold Level Contributor

    Larry, I looked at the diagram closer and it looks like it goes through the firewall and comes out just a single brown wire to the plug on the voltage regulator. I am not using the voltage regulator and it is unplugged. I have a alternator with a built in regulator. Can I run a separate wire from a run source to the coil? If so, What do I do with the pink wire on the + side of the coil. Leave it or remove it? Thanks again,Les
     
  5. Lobucrod

    Lobucrod Well-Known Member

    Not to change the subject manner of this post but there are three reasons I don’t like the one wire alternators. One is that when using them you loose the function of the idiot light. Two, to regulate the amount of charge needed they read voltage at the alternator itself instead of at the battery. This usually results in a lower charging voltage being present at the battery itself (But they maybe they’re calibrated to charge at a slightly higher voltage to compensate for this?). Three, they may not start charging at idle and require more RPMs in order to kick in.
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    Les,
    I don't have a wiring diagram for the engine side of the firewall. Looking at the diagram I posted though, it looks like the resistor wire runs from the ignition switch to the firewall. I would unhook it from the switch, and then run a 12 gauge wire directly from that terminal on the ignition switch to the + side of the coil, DONE. As far as the pink wire, you need to trace that back to the firewall. That wire probably joins a wire from the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid. I would eliminate that wire. Trace that pink wire back and see where it goes.
     
  7. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Is it possible someone already removed it? Are you the original owner of the car? Do the resistance wire tests reveal that the resistance wire is there/working?

    I would not try to replace it if it was there, I would just run another wire and jump it out, you know where the 2 end points are, just run another wire and tape off the ends of the original.
     
  8. Franks 68LARK

    Franks 68LARK Well-Known Member

    Wow finally I read this just now.. and finally it makes sense..... follow step 1... cut or locate wire.... step2 replace wire and connect to distributor.... awww.... thank you Larry
     
  9. Skylark-72

    Skylark-72 Eric S (72 Custom Convertible)

    I have found the resistance wire, it was connected to the positive side of the coil. However it had another wire leading off that that goes under the engine, I circled it on red. The blue circle is where the resistance is connected to the coil. This is making me go crazy right now. Thanks in advance for the help this is all so new to me.
     

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  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    There is a bypass wire from the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid. If you read the first post, it tells you how to replace both.
     
  11. Skylark-72

    Skylark-72 Eric S (72 Custom Convertible)

    i traced it back, replaced it and removed it. so now I just leave a cap on the R wire since it isnt used?
     

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