I want to change out my Strange Spool with a good POSI unit who can withstand the 622lbf torque of our Buick engine. Specs of my rearaxle is: 2000 Build MOSER GM12 bolt, 33 spline Moser axles, 4.56 gears, Strange Spool. I have found two units an Detoit Locker and a Yukon Gear Posi unit. Anyone have experience with either of the 2? Also again Strange is claiming that there 33 spline axles are different then the Moser 33 spline axles. They said that in 2010 also when I bought the Strange Spool, they told me I must have Strange axles to, otherwise it will not fit right. That was BS from Strange, everything fitted right (like the Moser customer department told me). Yukon link: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/yga-26014/overview/ Eaton Detroit Locker link: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/dtl-914a575/overview/ Moser Eaton Detroit Locker link: https://www.moserengineering.com/12-bolt-chevy-car-3-series-33-spline.item
First two are 4 series, last one is a 3 series, not sure if you're aware of that..... Following, as I may have a new posi in my future as well. Jim
I'd get your finger off that trigger til Brian Trick and/or Monzaz reply to this thread. They build differentials for a living....Jim
Hi, Used Detroit Lockers in lifted trucks never had a failure or issues other than it's a locker, skips tires around corners and they have a tendency to unload rather violently enough to scare you using in daily drivers Regards,
How about a Detroit/Eaton "Truetrac"? No jerk, ratcheting, or worn clutches, just smooth worm gears forever. They are very strong.
So are you going to stop going t0 the tracK? 622 is a lot of torque for any posi unit.... IF you are just hanging on the street the posi will be fine....BUT the track will destroy a posi with the weight and torque you have. But then there is the drive ability factor too. Detroit locker is garbage to drive on the street but will hold better than the Yukon dura grip posi The dura grip will have more road manners but flipping the coin with super sticky track and slicks. YOu kind of have to ask yourself where your going to do most of your driving and how much head ack your going to deal with. If your doing freeway Full spool is garbage and Detroit locker (Grizzley locker yukon stuff) ain't going to be much better. If your just hanging around in town most guys around here just leave the full spool in, every light they are gunning it anyway. They usually trailer to the track anyway. I think I can get you a better deal through Yukon too I am a dealer for them and Nitro gear and axle. Jim JD Race
Would some other form of locker be better....sure its not cheaper, but air or electric locker? Alot of trail ppl use them so they can lock or unlock but the stress they are under had to be high
Truetrac, look into this design Do yourself a favor.... You wont break it. It won't pop, snap, jerk You won't wear it out. Both wheels will turn together year after year No stupid ratchets. No stupid cones. No stupid clutches. No stupid additives. **Once you true trac **You'll never go back
Races are non existent downhere and after 14 years of racing i want to cruise again. My plan is to sell the whole car as it is a great bracket car that has won many many races. Trading the car is also an option. Or sell the engine, and put a 400-450hp 455 back in that is good for street driving. If i cannot sell the engine i will detune it with another cam, but that will not be optimal with the SP2A stage 3 intake. Trading the engine could be an option to for a more stockish one. for now i use the car for short city driving to carmeets in town. And have no problems doing that with the Spool.
This happens all the time up here in the northern states... They build a motor that has no street manners and then try to band aid the thing to a driveable state and end up selling the headache after 2-3 years buying a NEW hot rod car. YOURS was a race car so it is slightly different deal....BUT up here everyone looks for 500+ HP and thinks the car will have idle and road manners. MAYBE if you have a 502 and bigger cube or turbo, supercharger, etc. They are trying to do it with a naturally aspirated motor. IF all you want to do is burn outs just leave a mild 268-274 caM advertised duration, put a stall of about 3000 ...gear ratio does not matter make sure the motor has SOME life... compression good, NOT HIGH.... just not ring blow bye and valve issues etc. Time and carb it correct and you will have TONS of tire ripping fun. That is what most guys want here... burn the tires and go get ICE CREAM!...lol.
I knew what i had and have used it as such for racing 14 years and it was great fun and often a great challenge to finish in the top 3 all the time. But times change and we change to. We, me and the car made our mark with that unknown musclecar brand for most people., and showed them what we could do . And made them think twice when we battled what should be superior parts, very expensive build cars, and lots of cocky owners who thought you always can buy s race with the $$$. And thought there was no skill of anykind needed. I hope we can make someone happy who is looking for a car that has been setup for racing. Or with the race parts.
Install a TA288-94 cam. Install a built quadrajet Add a black vinyl top. Add stock Buick rally wheels Own and drive the coolest vintage innocent looking street sleeper around.