Hello everyone, I'm in the process of replacing the rear main seal. I'm using the TAP seal and doing it with the motor in the car. I've removed the old rope seal and cleaned it all out. However, when I went to slide the seal into place, it didn't want to go in easily. With light force the seal went in a little, but the block shaved off some of the rubber on the seal, so I didn't try pushing it in anymore. I'm thinking I'm going to need a new seal. Anybody else experience this? Thank you
I use a bit of RTV on the backside of the seal. It acts as a lubricant and then once it’s dry it helps keep the seal in place.
Where did you get the TAP seal?? What you want is a Ford 460 rear main seal. TA Performance sells them with the little rubber blocks. Or the lcoal auto parts store will have them too. The ford part number is: D2VE-6701-AA
When I changed mine, I first had the Ford seal from NAPA. I messed up and installed it backwards soI had to redo it. I ordered the second seal from TA and it was cheaper and included the rubber blocks and pins. Installed it with a bit of Right Stuff and it has held up good for 3 years so far. They both had the exact numbers and names molded on the seal, so the same part from the same manuacturer.
Thanks for the replies. I ordered it from TA Performance. I will see if I can pick up the ford 460 seal locally so I don't have to wait.
I ordered TA part number TA1515 As you can see when I was test fitting it, I lubed it with oil and tried pushing it threw, but it was a very tight fit and with a little pressure, it began to shave of the rubber on the seal.
It will leak if you don't pull the crank and polish the cross hatch off. The crosshatch on the crank helps the rope seal.
If u have any reason to pull the engine, do it. I had to remove the engine to perform some other work. It is so much easier to r/r the rear main. We had to loosen of the crank caps to install the seal. It would not install correctly any other way.
My first seal I installed with the engine on a stand, definitely easier. Second was in the car, but the transmission was out. It wasn't too bad because I could take the oil pan out towards the back, and removed the cap and loosened the mains a bit and dropped the back of the crank a little bit, just enough to slide the seal in.
Sounds like a pita. Did you pull the pistons down in bores a bit too to get crank to drop? How did you recheck crank endplay? Seems it could change loosening all the main caps.
To be honest, I didn't think about any of that. I just knew I had to change the seal and made it happen. I only moved it slightly, making just enough clearance to let the seal slide in easier. The end cap has to come out anyway, and the main caps I just loosened the bolts a little, didn't take any of those out. I put end cap and bearing back in same position and re torqued everything. Didn't see how anything would be any different, but I'm a construction guy not an engine builder. My rear seal don't leak anymore, so I'm happy so far.
