I have some 8.5" axles here out of a 71 and before I put on a set of bearings/seals thought I would measure them up and discovered nobody seems to have any specs for axle shaft runout (lots for the flange though). Looked in the manuals, checked the internet, all I can find is Toyota axle runout specs With axle on v blocks (on bearing surface and just inboard of splines ) anybody know **roughly** what you should be looking mid axle for runout? I know they should be chucked into a lathe to properly check them but don't have one...and again what numbers would I be looking for anyway? Also who makes decent stock replacement axles, seems everyone has c clip style but not many 28 spline stockers out there? USA Standard gear ZA G1255803-SH any good? Thanks in advance...
You wont find aftermarket 28s or any for that rear in any big box store. They are considered a custom order. Best to get ahold of monza or brian trick through here and order from them. As far as run out, the less the better, but if it was bent I would think it would eat bearing pretty fast an you would have a hard time sliding them in and out
Its more of a curiously thing, bent axles would show up as you said with flange runout and bad bearings but history is unknown so just thought I would do some quick checks before I put bearings/seals on...so still looking for numbers. Thanks.
ZA G1255803-SH is A c-clip axle...so that will not work. We have the Yukon Bolt In Axles you need. 29.75" long 1.381 shaft with bearing land for your bearing to be pressed against The spline and bearing surface area needs to be on the same plane... anything in between can be off.... GM C-clip axles are HUGE for this ...if you saw them you would be amazed they let the axles go into production cars...lol. I try to keep axles in the .005 range or less run out.... anything more you will start to feel the issues. BUT this can vary as wheels have run out the limited slip carrier can have run out from the side gear and clutches... so it is really touchy to give specss for general rule. ...as stated the less the better. I try to tell everyone when building the diffs...replace as much as you can afford. Lastly... PLEASE check your housing. That is a big problem with most old car and truck rears. So many years of use and so many owners that never tell you the history of driving off road they have done...!!! Jim JD
OK, thanks for the info. No issues at all, just a set of extra axles don't want to waste a set of bearings on so was hoping to measure them beforehand....some of the specs I saw for other makes was crazy (like .059 on toyota axles mid span with v blocks) so was wondering about ours.
Jim, Do you know if the 8.2 and 8.5 axles are interchangeable? I have several loose axles that are not labeled, and I need a pair for an 8.5. Is there a way to identify them? Thanks.
They are not and you need to be very careful......the splines are cut slightly different. 8.2 axles will go into and 8.5 carrier but they have a slight amount of spline slop......8.5 wont go into an 8 2
So if any of the loose axles will not go into an 8.2 carrier it is safe to assume they are 8.5 axles? Sorry for the hijack, Tim.
Yes or the axles are totally messed up that could be the issue also. There are casting numbers for the axles...But never really wrote them down over the years. I just have Pontiac side gear and a Chevy side gear to determine the difference. As long as the axle is the correct length... and the spline slide on good not all loosey goosey... and the axle bearing is correct for the housing and year rear your using you will be good. The hardest thing to determine is the straightness... THAT being most axles are 40 -50 year old now and hard to know the life they have lived over drive and SITTING...
