A few weeks ago I drove my car to a car event and all was well on the way to the event. When I went to leave I had a crank/no start situation. I turns out that the coil failed completely. Now I'm in the process or replacing the coil and repairing the melted pink wire in the engine wiring harness. I want to replace the plastic sleeve along with the electrical tape the encases the harness as it goes along the valve cover from the firewall to the coil and alternator. A long time ago there was a place that advertised these parts as replaceable, but I don't remember who. I will call M&H and see if it is indeed them. Especially, since they supplied my harnesses for the car when I restored it. Any assistance would be appreciated. Regards
Contact Loren (member la 65 gs) If he does not have the parts, he likely will know where you can get them.
Description of stock points system. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?th...ystem-function-tests-and-modification.248990/ Try Lectric Ltd. https://www.lectriclimited.com/repair-components/
Larry, I am in the middle of installing Lectric Limited Breakerless SE distributor electronic conversion. This is going in my 1936 Buick coupe with 1965 Buick 401 wildcat engine so we have no previous wire guides. I have recently learned that to run this unit we must have a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor on the oem type coil . looking further into wiring diagrams (i'm not an auto elctronics guy) it appears we need to go thru a solenoid for additional cranking power and I am hoping we can use solenoid on mini starter (Tom Telesco model) for this hook up ??? What I can make out of wiring diagram(really crowded) is there is a resistor leading to the tach, I have a stock tach (64 or 65) but don't know what size resistor it needs. I'd like to find a diagram with just ignition system shown but no luck so far. Any help appreciated Thanks 36 Three Window
http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/sparky-mini-starter-with-points.284545/#post-2345188 No resistor needed for a tachometer AFAIK.
It isn't additional power for cranking, it is full battery voltage to the coil ONLY WHILE CRANKING for a quicker start. The stock starter solenoid has an additional terminal for that purpose, it bypasses the ballast resistor ONLY while cranking. Mini starters don't have that additional terminal on the solenoid, so you have to get creative. The thread I linked tells you how to create a bypass with the mini starter solenoid. Either use an additional wire with a diode, or a relay, your choice.
