I’m going to put a “Folding top” on my 72 Skylark. I’m looking for ANY pictures of any part of the top installed. When I bought the car there wasn’t a top on the frame, so I don’t have much reference. I have all the soft parts.. Youtube I can’t find an A body, yup I have the Body book. It’s only 23 steps to install the top completely, how hard could it be? Lol Cheers!
That is hard info to find. I had a lot of stuff archived from the web, and the links are all broken now. How's this? http://www.leftlanebrain.com/convertible-top-installation/
...Mrolds69, thanks for finding (broken links) and posting, it's a well done article. I've pretty much stopped saving links, preferring to save info locally...
IMO only, this is something for professionals. The videos etc and illustrations don’t explain the tips and tricks these guys use to get tops replaced. Looks like lots of steps you got to get right or whole top is off. This is something that I personally would not attempt.
I owned an Upholstery shop for many years and helped one of my employees install a top on one of my Mustangs. We had the back of it off at least 6 times, and it took forever to get it on correctly. I will never do it again. We also borrowed a special air stapler gun. It used weird angle cut staples that would twist when they went in, so they would hold much better then the regular air powered straight staples we typically used on upholstery. (The straight staples kept pulling out.) If you want to try it, knock yourself out. Duane
I have done 2 of these top installs. It's is a time consuming job. One trick is you can use windshield urethane and fill the tack strip rear gutters. Smooth out flush and let dry. The other trick is if you do alot of these tops is to make a jig to hold top bows in the rear and in closed position . This gets you close to correct install as long as the top is adjusted first before removing and making jig. These are floating bow systems and don't attach to the body unlike earlier years. Rear bow height and proper adjustment is critical for good fit to windows and function. One thing I want to point out that is critical I see wrong in this install. I see it on many cars and it presents a big issue. The rear upper fold over trim on the rear bow should not extend past the seems more the 2 to 3". Many make the mistake extending these down as in these instructions. This causes the end caps to tear the top and gets loose resulting in eventually failure when top is put down. This is even noted in the factory assembly manual
...I definitely agree there are things best left to pros, articles like these can help make that decision. For me, this article (and thread) adds to my knowledge base. Don't know if, how, or when they will be useful...
Totally agree. It can be done with car and time. Also most tops need reconditioning and painted as well. If you have a good fit and the frame is in good shape it makes the job much easier. Not to mention you may have to grab some help to make it easier lol.
There is also another thing to think about. If you take the car to a shop that installs tops, each installer will have preferences for which brand top he likes to put on particular cars. What this means is this, do not buy a top and then take it to an upholstery shop to put on. It most likely will not be the brand top he wants to use. This will often result in either a top that might have wrinkles, or (worst case scenario) he will make you buy the brand top he is used to installing and you will have even more expense. I used to sell tops with my seat cover/door panel business, and have seen the above played out many many times. I always warned the customers before buying them, and forced them to ask the installer which brand he preferred before selling them. Duane
... ...true for real pros, they arrive at their preferences through experience. Take advantage of that when you can...
Hi, The tack strips that OPGI sold me for the front and center bows swim in the channel. Do you think I could set the small tack strips in urethane? I bought 3M window weld. Thanks
I never actually ended do mine, but I did do hella-hella lot of research. So Kingdaddy could probably answer better. I would think you can set or add urethane to fill the channel. Original tack strips were like cardboard and thicker than the replacements now. Some double up the thickness by gluing together. If the channels not full, you will see it on the side of the bow through the top. The opposing leg staples are available from the convertible place in RI. Just to review what others said, the tops do vary from company to company. You need to know the EXACT rear bow height for your top. Like Electron might be 20 1/2" (it's in their catalog) Robbins might be 20", etc. The difference is not a lot, but it hugely affects the way the top looks and fits. What Kingdaddy said...spacer sticks to get that bow set right. Once you find the height, you can use bungy cords or wire and a spacer to set that height. It goes on and on...you can do it!
This is all correct. I have done 2 tops and used different manufactures. They seem to both work nice but all require work. They sell urethane replacement strips that can be riveted or glued in . You can also use the urethane to glue those in or fill channel. Sitting a small amount below surface is ok but not too far. If your top is on there and fits good it makes it easier as you can swap pads and use as reference. Pads, Well liner, rear window then top If doing a complete job. Don't skimp on pads and do a complete inspection of all hardware. Buy stainless steel staples and a air stapler. Nothing special here as far as tools. You will also need weather strip adhesive or vinyl top adhesive. You will need to adjust and have the rear trim stick out several times to get things tight .
