I got my valves from Inline Tube. The only fitting that was not a direct fit on my 70 was the one at the 45* angle,for the front left caliper. All of my other lines went right in. Maybe 67 had different fitting sizes. Inline Tube also has all of the different fittings,if you want to make your own lines.
I was recently re-reading an old car magazine 'final page' article by an old-school "long-time-in-the-magazine-business" guy. Subject was about'snowballing' project and brakes. He ended up replacing his brake lines rear cylinders, etc, etc, etc because he and his more mechanical minded friend found that his rear brakes were not even working due to rust inside. Point is, how often do you (or ANY of us) actually flush out our brake lines? Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water from the air). Yeah, we check our fluid levels, but each time the cap is off, and assuming the inner seal IS intact... we expose the brake fluid to more air, thus more moisture. The moisture will settle in the low points of the line leading to RUST internal. I recently was working on a 1999 (20 years old) vehicle that had accumulated enough water in the rear brake lines to render one rear wheel not working, and the other BARELY actuating and severely slow to release. Now THAT was on a TWENTY year old vehicle. Made me think a LOT about my cars that sit most of the time... Any more similar horror stories?
I agree Steve, most times the brakes do get neglected until there is a big problem. I bled so much fluid through my system now, all of the old dirty stuff is completely gone. I was able to make the 1/4" line to connect to the rear original line using 2 different tube nuts-9/16" and 1/2" inverted flares. I used a pre-made 30" long 3/16" line for the front (combo valve to Tee). Then another pre-made 12" long 3/16" line for the front left caliper. I had a lot of issues with leaks and bleeding but I got them all sealed up and air-free now. I just need to find a way to clamp the lines to the frame where they all meet. I will probably make some kind of bracket or clamp. Brakes work pretty good. I only drove it around for about 15 min so far and I notice that the rears lock up on hard braking. Fronts don't. It could be because I have lowering springs in the front but not in the back. It's a little raked. But they are better than the front drums were. I will post some pics.
I’m not a fan of that idea,but let us know if or how that works. The valve has two individual ports for a reason. If the one you are tapped into fails,now you have no front brakes.
If I had mounted it down low like that I would have used the 2 front ports. But they are internally connected and I found several references stating one side could be plugged and use a tee. It seems to be working fine.
I'd love to see this information for the distribution block that has no proportioning valving like came on the all drum cars and compare it to the one for the 71 up disc brake car. By the looks of that one, it is a newer model with the wrong brake warning light for the 68-72 cars.
I wonder if it's possible to take the brake light switch out of the original block and install in new one? If not I will have to get a new connector for the brake light I guess.
What I want to see is the specs for the distribution block, thread and size, and the same for the 71 up proportioning valve. Nobody publishes the thread sizes. The above referenced image is the first one I've seen. Not inline tube and not right stuff. It is very hard to determine and research without that info.
I haven’t tried swapping them with everything possible,but I have tried taking the switch from a drum block,to use in one of those new brass blocks,and they were different.
It is my understanding that the pressure differential part of the combination valve provides redundancy between the front and rear ports so using one or both of the front ports makes no difference. If you lose pressure on the front, whether you use one or both, the internal shuttle will move forward blocking the front ports and maintaining pressure to the rear port. Likewise if you lose pressure on the rear port the shuttle is forced backwards sealing that port and maintaining pressure to the front. The shuttle has a groove in the center where the brake warning light plunger sits under normal working conditions. If pressure is lost on either side the shuttle is forced towards the low pressure side sealing those ports and as the shuttle moves the plunger rides up out of the groove and activates the warning light switch. Bob
I've experienced that ice water in the veins feeling when you hit the stop pedal and it just slowly sinks to the carpet. Had a few close calls with cheap old cars back when I was a youngster.
