Looking to replace the package tray metal on 67 Skylark... All I can find is the 67 Chevelle package tray. The window to trunk filler panel I purchased seems to indicate it fits Buick, Oldsmobile and Pontiac. Mostly interested in the fitment under the window. Thanks for any help.
The upper, window to trunk panel is BPO only. The lower panel that is reproduced is Chevelle, and is shorter under the window to trunk, but not sure if the package shelf is the same as BPO. I replaced both on my 66 Skylark GS and used an aftermarket upper and found a nice not rusted complete lower, with the package shelf, and all worked out nice, but it was some work to get it installed but it was worth it.
The cardboard/mesh Chevelle package trays fit the Skylark well, maybe the sheetmetal will too. The Auto Metal Direct site shows the back glass and window molding interchange between Chevelle and BOP. As mentioned, deck filler panels are different. Would be worth phoning AMD to see if they have a BOP version on the way.
I think I have some pictures out there on my 66 restro. I also may have some more pictures of the install.
True, it does. I see the package tray X brace floor brackets fit Chevelle and BOP too. Hmm, Never seen this before. http://www.autometaldirect.com/amd-package-tray-extension-rh-66-67-chevelle-coupe-p-7474.html
A few pictures. Hardest part of this was drilling all the spot welds on each side of the panel. You have to be carful not to bend or destroy the edges to re-attach the new panels. Next you need a tool or make one to easily remove the trunk tension rods. It is important to test fit many times the deck lid with the new lower and upper panels in place, mine wanted to be low in the center but was able to get it correct, as seen in the last picture.
Thanks for the pics. Great perspective on what is being done. I have a spot weld cutter and a seam buster. Looks like you were able to leave the hinges in place. Speaking of test fitment... Any problems with fitting the window? So much to think about.
Have not installed the new rear glass. Have test fitted the SS molding, and still need to install the lower molding clip holders X8. The factory must have got carried away when they spot welded the panel to the sides, We had at least 25 spot welds on each side. Yes you should leave the trunk hinges on the car. The parts car you get the under panel from, you need to be very careful in removing the panel. Best is to cut it out with over size cuts and then you are able to flip it over and remove the under panel. Best of luck on finding and installing yours. Most under panels are rusted in the center where a pad was installed by the factory and collected water.
Thanks, good info. One thing that bugs me is drilling holes in the new parts to install the clip holders. Are you using the screw in type or rivet studs?
I also replaced the deck panel on my 66. The underside was in good shape except for some pinholes. The molding clip studs are attached with a stud welder like this: http://hsautoshot.com/pcat/welders Here are the 'mold rivets' just like the originals: http://hsautoshot.com/product/1003
This looks like a better alternative for the clip studs. Do you have any pics of the work you did that you can share? My tray is beat, someone did some previous work and someone else made some cuts in the tray.
The pics I have on file don't show a lot, but here are a couple: 1) lower panel with the sound deadening pad in place. Holes are drilled along the trunk lid edge. Button welds were done thru those holes to the underside of the new panel. 2) underside of new panel. Holes on right are in the window channel. Button welds done from top to the lower panel. Holes at top are to weld to the roof wing. 3) inside the trunk, welding the end to the roof wing. 4) another, tough to get to that whole edge! 5) new panel welded in place. The corners were brazed like the original. Makes those seams more waterproof. Welds in window channel were done from the top, welds in trunk lid channel were done from bottom. 6) after de-rusting with wire wheel, wire brush, scotch brite and neutralizing with phosphoric acid. Then primed.
Found some more of the removal process: 1) used the cut off wheel to remove most of the panel. The spot welded areas are still on the body (not on the panel). 2) cut thru the center of the window channel. 3) most of the panel removed, still have to remove the strips that are welded to the body. Note that lower panel is not attached to the roof wings and barely attached to the trunk lid lip. 4) removing the strip from the roof wing. Lots of welds there!
Thanks for taking the time to put this together. This will be a big help. You brazed at the bottom of the sail panel to the side of the trunk filler panel? There was no distortion with all the heat? After the phosphoric acid, what kind of primer did you use? Thanks.
No, just spot welds with a mig welder. Reference pics 3 and 4 in my first post. The top side gets some seam sealer in the joint between sail and deck panel. I did braze the corners, and only the corners, just like the factory did. Use a small tip and do it quick. I like epoxy primer.