I have sent the ARP technical section a question on this. The shorter bolts are fine, plenty of thread, but the longer ones I'm not happy with. I'll wait for a reply and maybe then contact TA. Possibly somewhere along the line the wrong bolts have been put in the box ??
You should be ok with ARP head bolts, but you really dont need them unless your Nail is going to get boost. Stock head bolts are fine, you may as well return the ARP's. Take that $$$ and spend it on the heads. Don't trust TA on Nailhead stuff. Their rockers/headers/timing chains are ok, but they really have not put any R&D into Nailheads like they did with the 455. I refuse to use any of the TA cams or springs for them.
The reason I bought the ARP bolts is that I got this engine in pieces and all the bolts were missing. I can't return them because I bought them several years ago in anticipation of this engine build and only just opened the box. I'm hoping that maybe if they sent me the wrong ones, they will make good on the proper long bolts.
Head flow primarily, I/E flow ratio, etc. It's like saying "they use the same lobes as a SBC" , just because it works for one doesnt mean it works for both. You already know this, you have a mean running Nailhead yourself . My main point of contention is just the old, no thought involved, grinds. The comp thumprs kill them power wise, along with just about anything custom out there. Nails need way more exhaust duration, but, again, you ready know this. I am building 3 425's and a 401 coming soon. Going to do a little cam experimenting with them with lobe ramps and amount of exhaust duration/LSA.
If you need bolts, I have tons of them. Just about any Nailhead bolt can possibly need. Ebay ARP's, as long as they are new, they will sell. PM me if you need anything
If you need bolts, I have tons of them. Just about any Nailhead bolt can possibly need. Ebay ARP's, as long as they are new, they will sell. PM me if you need anything Thanks very much for the offer, I appreciate that. I have got a reply from ARP and they say that TA buys bulk bolts and re-packages them. I received a reply from Sherri at TA and she confirms Mike does not use the ARP washer so the bolt should be OK at that length. Phew, another load off my mind.
omg changed the oil in the 401 and did not put in the stp like moly additive so far no leaks. going do the big motor now. thanks so much. use this additive for years in different kinds of make engines. that thick moly seems like it would help leaks and not make leaks.
Imagine my surprise finding out the same! The instructor to the area's machinist school clued me in on that.
Just an update. I have taken the crankshaft to an expert and he is going to make improvements to the seal area and make recommendations. He only deals in crankshaft re-builds old and new and knows his stuff. Meanwhile, I have looked carefully at the timing gear / chain area where the timing cover goes. There are 2 threaded holes. Researching, I have found out these are supposed to house an oil dripper ? Same as the attachment. Please confirm. Remember I got this 401 engine incomplete and in pieces, so many parts missing. If this is where an oil dripper goes I can make one. Also, what means are there on this engine for a camshaft retainer ?
The later blocks, like my 66, don't have those 2 holes. I wasn't aware the early ones had an oil dripper, sounds like a good idea. They do have a splash shield that goes on after the crank gear goes on to keep excess oil away from the front seal. There is no cam retainer, apparently the cam doesn't move forward in normal operation.... maybe the distributor gear and drag from the oil pump keeps it rearward.
That's good that you confirmed about the retainer, thanks Walt. I picked up the crank today and he did a great job on it. So now I'm on to fitting crank, pistons and rods. The whole job is dragging me down a bit so the sooner I get it together and in the chassis will give me space in the workshop and piece of mind.
Finally got the engine and transmission in the chassis. Before I bolt the heads down just want to be sure which way UP the Best head gasket goes. There's no markings on it. My guess it's A but just want to make sure please.