Same here with home made manual four wheel disc brakes. Rear disc Brackets from a junk yard and everything else from a parts store. Stops like it has 4 wheel power disc brakes. Here's the stance;
Started the process of boxing the frame. I wont be running it all the way because I don't want to lose my expensive new cross member. I will probably run two smaller pieces, one before and one after the cross member. Already there is a difference just with that piece when I pick up the rear and try to twist it.
The guy wearing someone else's pantso No::grin: pm'd me and wanted some pics, so here are ones I have on my computer. Brace yourself...there ugly; But the car goes straight down the track...almost boring to drive.
Guy, If you think that's considered ugly you're mistaken! I've seen some very nasty looking race cars out there!! Sometimes I wonder how some of them stay together!! The car looks good! Steve
You'll be amazed at how much more rigid it will be by boxing the rails! Imagine taking a piece of paper and folding it into a "U". Hold it by both ends and move it around. Pretty floppy huh? Now take another piece of paper and fold it three times to form a square tube. Tape the ends together and now try moving that one around. Big difference! Of course it's different material strengths, etc, but it gives a good comparison. When building a race car chassis or even building a pro street vehicle like you're doing always remember "Triangulation". That's how you get rigidity without all the extra weight. Keep up the good work!! Steve
Guy, that thing is hideous! Please delete it... I kid I kid! That looks great. If you think its ugly I think you need your eyes checked!
Thanks. It's my first car I bought (i was 14 years old) rusty and wanted to save it. This latest tranformation was done 20 years ago and my abilities and expectations are a lot different now. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to looking at your build process!
Frame is halfway boxed. I then ran bracing from the backhalf cross member to the frame. Almost done...
Thanks! Im still very much learning. Welding upsidedown is still a problem for me- those welds aren't very pretty. Its a Hobart 140 running 75/25 argon/co2. It is a beautiful machine. The garage my car is in is not wired for 220 so I bought the biggest 115 welder I could. It has plenty of balls and can easily blow through any part of the frame. I love it and would highly recommend it!
Started mocking up the narrowed 9" and ladder bars. Got everything assembled and realized I have no idea what the hell im doing when it comes to adjusting all of it. I also noticed that the axle is closer to the rear frame end I cut then I thought. Im wondering if I might have to cut off that body mount. S&W actually says to cut the stock frame anywhere right before the last body mount so maybe this is why. I think the next step will be to order up the wheels & axles and see is they are going to rub. This is a whole new world to me so im learning as I go...
Looking good! Try to keep the panhard bar as close to horizontal as possible at ride height. If it's at a high degree of angle at ride height, your tires will rub easier when experiencing bounce or droop, (bumps) depending on how much clearance you'll have to begin with. In short you'll have less side movement with a more horizontal panhard bar. It looks like your axle bracket is already elevated, but your frame bracket could be lowered. If you do that I would add another brace up to the frame to stiffen it up. (Triangulation) Keep 'em comin'!! Steve
Steve, I hope you don't mind but I think you are going to have to hold my hand through this part! Haha! I have some questions already please bare with me being such a rookie. Right now everything is finger tight and just hanging where gravity wants it. I can push the axle side to side with a finger. I see where the ladder bars connect to the frame there are multiple holes. If I used the top hole (its sitting in the bottom hole in the pic) would that bring the axle up closer to the body? And if its closer to the body then the panhard bar wouldn't be so angled down correct? Also what will actually keep the axle centered? Like I said I can push it side to side. Is it the panhard bar that will actually keep it centered where you want it? I don't see how tightening the ladder bar hem joints on the frame, or tightening the coil over mounts will keep it from moving. Do you center it once the body is back on? Also as you can see the housing is angled upwards. Do you want that housing parallel with the floor, or do you want it angled up like that? If not im guessing the bottom ladder bar adjustment sleeves/hem joints have something to do with that? Thanks for any help! Also what backspacing do you recommend and why when I go to choose my wheels?
