1965 Skylark 2-door V8 301

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by maseusmc, Jun 24, 2014.

  1. maseusmc

    maseusmc Gunny G

    Could I get some tips? I'm planning on fixing the radiator on my 1965 Skylark V8/301. The water pump is brand new and the engine has been jazzed up a bit. I wanted some ideas on want else should I replace once I have the radiator removed? Thanks in advance.

    Semper Fi,
    :blast:
    Gunny
     
  2. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    If it has 100K miles, or so, on it the timing chain should probably be replaced. How old are the hoses. When's the last time the brake and trans fluid have been changed? The list never ends. I started out dropping the pan on my 65 Special to clean it out and ended-up replacing the engine and trans pans (rust), gravel shield, wheel cylinders, front brake adjusters, master cylinder, entire exhaust system, tires (they were 10 years old with 3Kmiles on them) and rebuilding the starter. One thing just led to the next and the car only has 51K miles on it. It's: while you're at it, you might as well.........

    Your engine is a 300.
     
  3. maseusmc

    maseusmc Gunny G

    the trans is good and the brakes are are bad. the car was driven from CA to TX a couple of years ago. It sat in the garage for a about 8-10 month before I bought it for less then nothing. I had the engine overhaul with all orginal parts. I might just take a few pics of the car and post them so that the forum can point me in the right direction. I'm only trying to get the car on the road. I'm trying to my it safe enough for me to drive about about 30miles a day then hopefully next year pour in some more cash.
     
  4. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    You may as well plan on replacing everything on the brakes. The wheel cylinders are are only $12 ea, master cylinder $30, hoses $10 ea. It's cheap, don't cut corners. Most people never flush their brake fluid which means any moisture will settle in the wheel cylinders and rust them solid. I got wheel cylinders from Autozone, the fronts were made in China, the rears were from Mexico. The fronts had the bleeder holes drilled at the wrong angle. Once installed the bleeders were against the spindle so they couldn't be turned for bleeding. The second set wasn't any better. I found Raybestos, made in USA on Ebay for the same money. And while you're at it ........ you may as well convert to a dual master cylinder, I thing you only need to change one hard line and plug one hole in a Tee fitting. If your car is rusty you may consider completely replacing the hard lines. I'd bet that most cars over 20 years old have at least one seized wheel cylinder.
     
    wkillgs likes this.
  5. maseusmc

    maseusmc Gunny G

    Yep, back right is seized. It has a couple rusty spot. in the trunk and behind the rear glass but that is it.

    Gunny G
     
  6. Ben Hickman

    Ben Hickman New Member

    Do you know of a dual master cylinder that works. Not a disc brake front a drum drum dual master cylinder set up. I bought 65 skylark gs and it’s my first Buick.
     
  7. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    Ben Hickman

    My 65 had a dual master cylinder when I bought it but it was leaking. I replaced it 3 years ago and can't remember exactly which one I used, but, there's nothing special about it. It's probably just a 67 master cylinder, if your brakes are manual you'll need a 1" if power 1 1/8". I just moved my shop and I remember seeing the box, I'll try yo find it tomorrow. You'll need to do some plumbing, the single cylinder goes to a block with 4 tubes going into it. Remove the line that goes to the rear and plug that hole, run a tube from that tube to one of the outlets of the new master cylinder, the tube that went to the outlet of the old cylinder goes to the other outlet.
     
  8. Ben Hickman

    Ben Hickman New Member

    Thank you very much.
     
  9. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Theres TWO master cylinders available. One is for 1967-72 power or manual 4 wheel drums and the other is for 67-72 front discs. The latter did not work at all. The regular drum fronts are the correct setup. Ive been having problems with the rear MC seal leaking. thats a duralast brand. Ill finally get a good one. Invest in a chinasucker brake bleeder too. it pulls the fluid instead of pumping it for bleeding. Wayyy simpler. ws
     
  10. Ben Hickman

    Ben Hickman New Member

    Ok thanks I’m gonna upgrade to front discs using the Scarebird brackets. I ordered a power brake dual master cylinder guess I will see if it’s a pwr drum or disc when it gets here.
     
  11. newmexguy

    newmexguy Well-Known Member

    Would try to source rear wheel cylinder kits. That way, the original cylinder can be retained, with out cracking the to line to it, or removing it from car.
     
  12. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    I just replaced the rears with new. The OEM jobs sat since 1980 and the pistons AND shoe pushers got rusted up. It would really blow trying to get in there and hone the bores, and the rubber seals have a steel spring expander and need to get pressed in. I busted a bolt too. Just swap them and be done for 12.00 IMHO. Put some never seize on the bleeder too! I had a leaker hence the replacement. The damn shoes got soaked and are now glazed after smoking for a while (yes they were washed well!) . Picking up new zapatos this morning for 20.00 for the rears (4) shoes. Probably a little sanding in the drum too to help cut the glaze. Dont forget to dis-assemble the adjuster and wire wheel it clean and oil the threads. Fingers are easier to use than a wrench. ws
     

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