So new season has started and new problems with it. Over winter i have been changing timing to its previous adjustments, i advanced it from marks by one crankgear toth, which gave me 109 degree of ICL. Engine has a lot better idle and feels a lot stronger but it just refuse to work good at WOT. If i back the go pedal just by tiny bit it's all ok, but when it's on the floor engine starts to ''choke'' and it won't change from 2nd to 3rd gear. Can it be related to fuel delivery? Cam is Schneider 262 and that's all i know about it. Peace Kacper.
sounds like your going to high with your rpms because the trannys not up shifting.make sure the vacume line going to the tranny modulator is not leaking air and on on tight from the intake manifold and to the modulator.you might just have a bad modulator. if your not at high rpms when it starts choking then its breaking up plugs, wires ect. doc and the guys will give you some good ideals about it.
X2. Sounds like it's just not shifting and your reving it too high. Like was already suggested, check the vacuum line to the modulator and then check the modulator itself.
I checked all vaacum lines and it's all good, maybe i didn't say it clearly enough...it don't upshift, has a little choke-hesitate and when i let it off a bit and than stomp on the gas again it revs higher and than upshift. It feels like fuel starvation. Or maybe those Denso plugs were bad idea. It started after 150 miles from instaling those. Tomorrow i'll try to go back to Autolites and see if that change anything. Peace Kacper. ---------- Post added at 11:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:30 AM ---------- I was checking cam with degree wheel and it looks like marks straight where 8 degree retarded. I dont have 9 keyway chain yet so i figured i can advance it one toth which is about 9 degree. In my first post i ment cam sprocket not crank...ou:. Peace Kacper.
Kac,,, pard,,, most speed equip. cams already have the advance ground into them.... put the cam back to ''straight up'' and I will bet that the engine will run....''one tooth'' advanced, combined with the programed in grind , is enough to mess things up.... i had a ford engine that got so wore out that it jumped one tooth when I shut it off.... when I started it up to go home that day,, it had a bunch of low end power but would not run over 60 mph out on the road.....
If you are certain the intake lobe centerline is at 109 degrees, you are okay. But moving the cam by one tooth on the crank tooth is a huge amount....almost 19 degrees! 360/19 teeth= 18.95 degrees Moving it one tooth on the cam gear would be half of that...just over 9 degrees. is that what you did? It's possible the cam or gear markings could be off a little. Offset keys are available to make small timing adjustments. Russ Martin sells them. What carburetor are you using? Maybe it is a problem with the secondaries.
Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but do the factory Nailhead timing sets have retard built in? If he actually advanced the cam 9.5* or so and ended up at a 109* ICL, and assuming there was no advance ground into the cam, that would mean the timing gears are built with roughly 6.5* of retard built in, possibly more if there was advance ground into the cam. Just curious...
Camshaft intake and exhaust centerlines are expressed in crankshaft degrees. Advancing one tooth would move the centerline in the amount of crank rotation in the space of one tooth, or using Walt's math 18.95*. That is a lot of advance - Look out intake valves! I think this is your camshaft, but they do not list an intake C/L. Some of the factory Nailhead cams had advance ground in, and some did not. It depends on the year/engine. Cheryl
Well to begin with, when i bought a car cam was installed that way,one tooth advance. i do cars for living so i was like wth, it couldnt jump so someone had to make such a mistake....Chain had some slack so i bought new one at evilbay:spank:. Than i just aligned marks and off we go. Car run good but not like i would suspect it to be. I was reading more and more....you know how it goes. Than i have found thread on BBB section made by Jim Wise. He said that there are cams which needs 9 keyway plus one tooth to be mounted in right position....That made me thinking, that maybe someone before me actually knew what he was doing. So i got me a degree wheel. It came out that one tooth adv gives me exactly 109 ICL.... In fact i have no idea what is this cam, i have only found recipe which says cam-262Nh. About WOT issue i sorted it out. Today i took my Q-jet apart and it came out that primary rods where to deep in jets. They wouldn't go to power tip. Now it's different car. I can flor it and keep it up to 100 mph with no issue. I am happy i bought a posi :3gears:... Now i have to find out why there is nozzle drip in passenger side.....:grin:, guess it never ends eh. Me likes. Peace Kacper
Sorry to bring back that old post, but Doc was right on the money. I retarded cam back to marks,straight up, and it runs great again.... another lesson learned.:spank:
it smokes my new 275/60x15 Radials from rolling 15 mph, oh and it got 3.07 rear.:Brow::3gears: i am really happy now.Well maybe one last thing bothers me a bit but i will sort it out soon. I think my vaacum canister works at WOT on 3rd gear. When i stomp it its all ok on 1 and 2, until it change to 3rd. Than i have a little ping. Maybe i should get some adjustable canister and stiffen up the spring a bit.
