Does any one here have a Pro Line trailer? I am thinking of a 24' enclosed trailer, and Pro Line seems to offer a lot for the money. Please post comments both pro and con, Thanks Jim J.
If you don't mind me asking, what are the prices you've found? Do you have a link to the trailer and specs? I'm looking around for a 24 footer and not sure what a fair price is considering the many different model trailers out there. Tx Mike Iggycat NJ
Mike. Here is the one I was looking at, it is a 7000# GVW. Has a few options like electric brakes, aluminum fenders, stone guard, and LED lighting which add about $1000 over the base price. This same trailer from Pace is about $800 more. TRAILER LINK They have all the interior options that the other companies offer, just priced more reasonably. I don't know the cost to upgrade to 10,000# GVW. Jim J.
Do your self a favor and get 5000lb axles at least. This is a 35oo axle and for a GS thats pretty light. Check around and ask those that have pulled one for a while. When I pull I prefer surge brakes also. We all have to buy what we can afford but I really think a pull around garage for my rare car should be as safe as possible.
I have no experience with them but here is some food for thought. I would compare the specs for size and spacing of the floor crossmembers, frame construction, roof construction and the door hinges and latching system with say, a Haulmark brand trailer which is one of the leaders. The Proline looks like a flat top but its hard to tell from the pics. It could be rounded a bit. See if the roof is one piece construction or it has seams. flat top is better if you have a concern clearing overhead obstacles, fitting in a garage, etc but the round tops shed water much better. I think the Haulmark rounded top trailers now have a one piece roof with no seams. That would be an attractive feature especially if its going to sit outside forever. I've used a 7000lb GVW 20' Haulmark to haul a 4500lb car. Pushing the envelope a bit on the GVW because the trailer weighs 3000lb empty. If I was buying I don't know if I'd spring for the 5000lb axles/10k GVW trailer unless I was planning on being on the road quite often. Guess it depends how you will use it and personal preference. Before I would purchase anything I'd want to personally see a couple other brands to compare construction. Trailers are a very competitive business and I would be cautious of any that are priced lower than average due to where they may cutting corners to get the best price. Maybe they cut in an area thats not important to you but better to know that up front vs after the fact. I was looking for an open trailer and drove to OH thinking one I saw on the net looked like a very competitively built trailer for less money than others. I planned to bring one home with me until we got there and looked at the construction. I left without one and ended up paying $600 more elsewhere for a more substantially built trailer.
Thanks to all for your help. I ended up buying a 2007 Cargo Mate 24' wedge front. 10,000lb GVWR w/16" on center wall and frame members. Trailer has a lot of nice options. Checkered vinyl floor, ramp door, and flap. Full vinyl covered ceiling. 4 ceiling mounted 12 volt lights w/wall switch. 110volt hook-up. 4-5000 pound D-rings. 48" man door w/steel sill on curb side. 54" escape door on road side. Aluminum fenders and trim around ramp door. Canopy on curb side. Electric brakes. Radial tires. Electric jack. It even has heat and AC! (wonder if I'll ever use it?). Saw the trailer advertised on CL and inquired. Three days later I drove 2+ hours to inspect it, and had to have it. Tried to negotiate price, but owner wouldn't budge. I gave in because it really is lot of trailer for what it cost. Thanks again, as my purchase was influenced by the insight you guys provided. Jim J.
Sounds like you picked up a nice trailer!!! Now that you have the trailer--- don't shy out and use just any hitch!! Look hard at getting a Draw-tite/ Reese with Weight Distribution trunnion bars and sway control. My sway control is integrated into the weight distribution. By the time you load everything into the trailer, you will be amazed at how much that trailer will weigh!! And I do not know how long of a trip you will be setting out on, but you really need to have 1 mounted spare, bottle jack capable of lifting the loaded trailer, and a lug wrench/ 4-way. Tire pressure and well greased wheel bearings are your friends!!!:bglasses:
I intend to use a weight distribution hitch, my search begins today. I pulled it home empty on a standard ball mount, and I definately knew it was back there! Trailer came with a mounted spare, and I always carry a four-way lug wrench in the truck. Thanks for the tip on the jack, I hadn't thought about that. I will load the trailer and see if the truck jack will lift it. If not, I'll be sure to get one that will. Thanks, Jim
I carry 10 ton bottle jack and there is no question that it will lift everything up. As for the WD hitch, definately go heavy build (12K setup.... always look at overkill). Look at Reese/ Drawtite. I also have the dual cam sway control that utilizes the trunnion bars as part of the system. Never a question if it will be hitched up and staying behind me!!!:TU:
The Reese 12,000# Strait-Line is the exact hitch I was looking at. The 66084 hitch can be had for $550 with the 54970 shank. The 54970 does not appear to provide enough drop though (1-1/4"). The 66074 Strait-Line comes without a shank for $525, and the 63971 shank (2" to 5-3/4"drop) at $120 puts the total at $645, still not too bad. I just need to do some measuring before I order.
