I have a set of very early ported Gessler heads on my 65, and about 99% of the work was on the intake side, which would support telriv's comments. He also ported a Q-jet intake, and milled down the divider, and built up the carb base. Sorry I can't elaborate more, they just got slapped on and run! Haven't opened it up in years.
I can agree with the idea of the wet flow dynamics. Too bad I dont have the $$ to do it here since we have wet flow capabilities. The nailhead intake and valve orientation is a MOFO for making the wet flow fixturing. I'm not wholly convinced though that in this instance the 'nodules' are there for that purpose due to many of their locations. If this is correct, stick your finger in ANY nailhead intake manifold at the first bend on the upper plenum and you SHOULD find a 'nodule' to help assist with that bend!(if this is poor logic, somebody PLEASE dont be afraid to correct me) Intertial RAM is not new science. I can agree that they had a purpose in the 40's (because we all know this stuff doesn't hit the line overnight!) to build an engine that is Torque and low RPM efficent to push their sterotypically heavy cars around. They had a goal, and achieved it. (thank god they did!) NOTHING on the current automotive market TODAY is new. All of this technology can be traced back to heavy trucks, aircraft, steam engines, etc from nearly 100 years back! Mike ( I LOVE a good discussion where lots of ideas get thrown around and people dont have to worry about their heritage being questioned!)
OK, I am the SOB that got Rotten Ass Hondas heads. I have been reading this thread since it started and didnt want to say anything untill I new a little bit about this head mod. I still dont know a lot but I do know what they flow in stock form with just the flanges cut off. After talking with Tom T and Mike Atwood on the phone about the # it is very interesting to say the least. No one really knows if this mod. will work or not. The heads were flowed from a guy that did my heads that are on my car now. So this makes it the same machine doing my heads on my car now, before and after and then the rotten ass honda set with a stock 3/8 nail valve. Stock---ported---rotten honda heads 100-60-68-112 200-110-127-166 300-158-187-217 400-179-214-224 500-181-219-231 600-183-222-237 700- 223-239 next up will be ported with 11/32 valves:beers2:
If the budget allows Bob, go with a 5/16 valve. The real question is if you want them to be more of a race head or a street head. That's really what you want to do with the guide. But 5/16 stuff is readily available and about the same price. Mike
Mike and Bob....any guesses as to why there is such a difference in flow between the heads Bob had flowed and the ones Mike flowed? I like Bob's numbers better!:grin:
You know, the more I think about this the more it doesn't make sense. I think what has happened, is the flow for the de'flanged head is off by .100. EG. the .100 numbers should/are actually at .200 lift. 220 cfm at the low of lift is nearly impossible. Either way, it still performs well. An explanation for the difference is that the port I cut the flange off of was already MAJORLY ported and modified. Mike
Its Hard to believe that anything could gain or lose 52 CFM at .100" of lift short of putting your palm against the port... typically at low lifts you only see 20-30 CFM difference between an Exhaust flow and an intake flow on the same head, and that's comparing MUCH smaller sized exhaust valve and port; With air flowing against the grain so to speak (flat valve face). To a typically much larger intake valve and port, with air flowing down a stream lined port and angled valve. On the other hand if those numbers are good, I may have to take back what I said about this mod...
I dont know why the numbers are so high ether. I am calling my head guy tonight and go over this again. Mike, I hope to get over there and get the pictures later this week. Mabey I will try to post them on here also so we can all look at them.I will get to the bottom of this if it takes every 1/16 of metal left on them heads. I will get back with you...................
i don't know about 5/16", but for 11/32" valves, use Manley valves for the Fo*d 2300 (2.3L I-4).. they are the perfect length and perfect diameter for the nailhead. they just need to be machined higher up on the stem to move the valve locks up. I found my sets (4 ex and 4 int.) for $80 each on ebay, and they're unercut for even more flow :TU: not bad for $160 total in valves:grin: :dollar: :grin:
I got this super secret source:Brow: Mike LOL- just look through any valve company books. They have complete listings of length, head diameter, under cut, angle, etc. If you look long enough, You'll see the other types of engines that have the same length valves with a bigger head and/or smaller stem.
I wonder if Max's Head Patterns still exist?????? I would much rather start off where he left off than Start all over again. Is there any chance someone knows any of his family or relatives out there???? Just my 2 cents, Kevin K.
If the core boxes did still exist, to my understanding, today's forging processes make that style of system obsolete. Now if we knew of somone who was doing it as a hobby, then it would be feesible. If I had to guess if anyone out there did find/have them, it would be Russ. Mike
FYI- If anyone is interested, Russ has 2 Max Balchowski intakes for sale on Ebay one single 4bbl and one 2x4. This is a rare opportunity for someone(s). I'm drooling. Erik
been following this thread for a while. intriguing. regarding the flow questions, i think you should go back and try flowing with the intake connected. the separation is too drastic w/o the proper equipment. just my .02
